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Igor’s blueprint
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hi Joe,
That is the hall to the bathroom #1 entrance. Could you please help me with some questions about that are:
– There are ~1/2in gaps in door jambs in areas where I replaced carpet. Is there a way to close/hide that gap somehow?
In my smaller bathroom the tiles/caulk job are rather ugly and there is 1/2 in height difference between two floors. So, I am seriously considering changing tiles to LVP as well:
– Your bathroom video literally called ‘install around the vanity’. But my vanity has legs rather than a flush side. Is there a way to work around?
– In bathrooms does LVP go directly on the plywood, i.e. I can remove both tiles and cement board? In your video you used Ardex in the bathroom so I cannot see what floor is beneath.
Thanks!
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thanks Joe, that’ll be my next project once I’m done with the floor and the stairs (still debating to do LVP or wood – will seek your advise later)
On that bathroom photo, could you please advise where should I place a transition once I replace tiles with LVP? I think that currently LVP goes too deep into the bathroom, should the new transition be right in the middle of the door (at the thickest part of the jamb?)
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(not urgent, so please take your time)
hi Joe, could you please share your considerations / opinion on the best way to convert stairs from carpet to something else? My goal is to make stairs less slippery (I know carpet is the best, but my wife hates it) and more durable. My thoughts about tread materials:
– LVP will require a separate nose. My concern is that hollow nose construction is prone to damage. I’ll stop by at LL Flooring to check if other models are available (please point me if you found a C-shape nose that could be installed without cutting wood treads flush)
– Solid wood tread. These are super durable and will only require staining and shape-fitting; cost-wise could be cheaper at local lumber suppliers (I am going to check those as need newel posts).
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Hi Joe,
I have decided to install wood stairs – Menards has good 1″ oak solid-edge glued treads. I’ll probably cut my own risers as $16 for a thin melamine piece is ridiculous (I need to change 26 steps in two flights). If you have any experience, what’s the best material to use – plywood? pine boards?
I have also completed all but 1 room on the 2nd floor, which is not so easy/fast with using let’s call it one and a half working hands (: Thank you so much for recommending to avoid transitions – the look/walk is great! Thanks for your advice I measured the layout well enough so avoided 1″ eyesore strips along long walls! And thanks for helping me navigate doorjams – the only one really brutal/tough that the angled one; the rest I planned accordingly to meet in the middle, so they were relatively easy to do.
On my 1st floor I have a simple square carpet place in front of the fireplace (just the same layout like in this video, the rest of the floor is oak hardwood with a shoe).
Could you please advise what molding can I use to close the gap between LVP and the vertical plane of the fireplace? Can I use the oak shoe that is installed on the rest of the floor (to maintain a uniform look)?
Thanks!
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Yes, if the fireplace has a flat face quarter round works very well.
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FINISHED!
Joe, I have finally finished the 2nd floor! With your great help, I installed around 1000 sq ft without a single transition (there are two for the bathrooms, as I’ll be remodeling floor there in some distant future).
Now I’ll take some rest and then tackle the fireplace room that most likely will involve installing 1/2in subfloor to match the height of the hardwood floor (just like you did in one of the videos).
And then… the stairs! Hopefully you’ll release some related videos on that topic soon 🙂
Again, thanks a lot for guiding me in the process!!!
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Well Done my friend!! It really looks great and you worked your tail off on this!
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Hi Joe,
I’ve finished the ‘near fireplace’ room on my 1st floor. For now, I’ve done with LVP (will tackle basement probably in 2024).
I’ll take some rest and start upgrading stairs. The very top stair will need to have transition from a oak wood risk to a LVP floor. I think I’ll order this overlapping nose
https://www.flooret.com/overlapping-stair-nose/
could you please advise how exactly to install it – glue? nail?
Thanks in advance!
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