Activity Feed › Forums › Where should I start – Post drawings and questions › Igor’s blueprint
-
-
You can also just use the screw method. I would not buy the spacers you shared with me.
-
Joe,
a screenshot from your video. How do you prevent floor moving in the arrow direction? I watch the video twice and did not see any spacers used.
Also, I discovered my plywood subfloor formed peaks in places where two or three panels meet, so I am belt-sanding those to flatten the floor. Any issue/advise with this approach?
-
-
Those spacers you shared will work there. If I need to hit the plank in that direction I slide a pry bar in between the wall and the plank.
-
hi Joe,
I’ve finally selected the plank https://www.homedepot.com/p/Lifeproof-8-7-in-W-Elk-Wood-Click-Lock-High-Traffic-Luxury-Vinyl-Plank-Flooring-20-06-sq-ft-case-I96711LP/309083453
Please let me know which side I should face the wall? (i.e which one is tongue ?)
The planks will arrive on Feb 20-21, so please take your time and share your updated blueprint instructions.
-
My next available date for a blueprint is Feb. 20th, I will get you on the schedule for then.
-
Thanks, that works perfectly.
I’ll finish the floor prep meanwhile
-
-
Joe, I’ve opened up transition to the second bathroom. I guess I should cut the cement board flush with the tiles?
The heigh difference between the tile and my LVP plank is different between the bathrooms:
3/4 in and 1/2 in
-
Hi Joe,
HD order is supposed to arrive on Feb 22, so please take your time with the instructions. I belt sanded subfloor joints that were peaking and have achieved very decent flatness. Still waiting for the trim removal tool though.
Meanwhile, could you please advise on two questions:
1) My baseboard is almost 1/2 in solid oak. From your experience, will 18g nails work to reattach it? My concern is that 16g nails leave huge marks and I only have 18g nailer.
2) Is it somehow possible to ‘disconnect’ and reattach the newel box post like this one? It is glued to the mounting block.
Thanks
-
Would you need to do that? It would really depend on how it was mounted. How are you going to mount it?
-
Hi Joe,
How bad is to have a plank not landing at the door jam? My dilemma is either to have 1-2 in strips along one of walls in bedrooms OR have two door jams with plant finishing in front of it (entrances to room 3 and 4).
-
Joe, this is what I installed today in like 4 hours:)
I started with the full-size plank in the left corner as in this way I’ll have almost full-size planks at both walls of the bedrooms 2 and 5 and half/size in the hallway. I used Lifeproof spacers I bought in HD and they kept the floor well. In the hall I’ll use your screw method to secure the floor.
Do you have any hints how to make long cuts straight? I’ll need to make many of these in the hall, and today I was struggling to make short-side cuts straight.
thanks!
-
Hi Joe,
I’ve completed the room 2 (w/o wardrobe), and almost all of the hall. I entered the big bedroom (#5) that I am going to tackle tomorrow.
Two questions please:
The hall into the bedroom photo. The way I inserted the plank into the doorjam is by skipping one plank in the nearby row. So I will need to insert that missing plank working backwards (the blue arrow). Is it doable or I messed up?
The stairs photo. The entrances to the rooms are only 37 in wide (I’ll add a few inches under the balustrades, once I figure out what I’ll do with stairs I’ll cut excess length). What pattern can I utilize to cover these entrances? If pieces need to be at least 8 in and seams 8+ in apart there is only the brick-laying pattern comes to mind.
Thank you very much for your support! I had to modify the blueprint and I did not feel confident using the cheater board so relied on the ruler, but with your guidance I am confident in the final result 🙂
Log in to reply.