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General ideas
Posted by James on December 6, 2021 at 6:02 pmHi Joe and folks.
I am quite happy to have found all this great information and looking to get started. I’m fairly handy with tools, painting and trims so I think I can get the job done. I am interested to get some ideas about the direction of the floor and the best bang for the bucks. Here are the main details:
A) Townhome with ground level entrance doors and then 2 floors above.
B) The main floor is the common area – kitchen, dining and living rooms with a washroom.
C) Top floor, master bedroom with 3 piece ensuite. 2 small bedrooms. 1 full washroom.
I am willing to take off the based boards to make this process more smooth as opposed to 1/4 round. On the other hand, I just finished painting the whole place and as much I love painting, I’d like to avoid repainting the walls… unless repainting is just a part of the deal.
Looking forward to this project!
James replied 10 months, 2 weeks ago 2 Members · 62 Replies -
62 Replies
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I am more than happy to help with direction of plank! When you post drawings of all 3 levels, I will talk you through the advantages of running the plank both north and south and east west so you can then make a decision.
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Hi Joe.
The doc has all 3 levels in it. Would like me to post each as a single drawing?
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I see all 3 now. Can you watch this video for me and get back to me with the info I talk about in the video.
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I am getting ready to remove the old flooring on the stairs and both floors. Probably starting late this week.
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Hi Joe.
Watched the pre-blueprint request video. I will do different drawings to meet your preference – no worries there. I must have watched all of your videos dozens of times so I have a fairly good understanding of your methods.
To answer your questions for the flooring and starting direction preference , etc:
- The existing floor type is some sort of laminate floor type and the new floor type is LVP and which has a “new locking system”. Still getting the actual name – it definitely has some sort of click type
- I prefer to start in the largest open spaces so I can move my furniture as needed
- The subfloors are plywood except for the rear entrance which is a concrete subfloor
- On the main floor, would prefer to start in the living so I can move furniture as needed. It is less complicated than the kitchen/dining room. There are 3 transitions – 1 to the landing and 1 to washroom but the tile is higher than the floor it uses a true 3/4 round, the 3rd transition is at the sliding door the sundeck.
- On the top floor I would prefer to start in the master bedroom as it is the largest and simplest room and I could move furniture around quite easily. There 2 transitions – 1 for each bathroom though the tile and carpet are level with each other.
- The main entrance has stairs up to the main floor.
- The rear entrance has stairs up to the main floor. but also has a door to the garage (does that mean a transition for each?)
That’s if for now. I will get back to you with the drawings later this week.
All the best!
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This reply was modified 1 year ago by
James Bowes.
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hey James, I see all the levels and your drawings are perfect! I am sorry for the confusion on my part. I will get these done for you.
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Hi Joe.
I found out the locking system is called a 5G. I don’t know what that actually means but it is a clock.
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Hi again.
I am getting a pic of the tongue and groove plank so you can see it. I will indicate on the drawings about areas that are not included as part of the new installation. It’ll be a bit later on today.
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Hi Joe.
The flooring is the Aquafix collection from ecpremiumflooring.com and I have attached the brochure… I don’t see the actual butt end joints though.
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Cool. Great explanation – I never would have thought to start in the location on the main floor. I need to send you pics which I have taken about the thresholds and transitions.
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I uploaded photos of the main floor.
I believe the planks are 9 inches wide and the area in the hallway that you recommended for finding the center is 36.5 inches wide. Interesting, as I learn from you I see the mistakes that were made in the original layout and application.
I used to do drywall for 13 years so maybe that helps a little in understanding what we are doing with this project 😉
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James, can you watch this quick, I have a few questions – http://somup.com/c3e2FXTkQ5
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This reply was modified 1 year ago by
Joe.
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Hi Joe.
That’s why you’re the pro’s pro! I never even considered starting in the office on the floor. That small closet wall is 13 inches long.
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This reply was modified 1 year ago by
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Hi Joe.
Super excited to be starting the demo. I do have some questions about 2 areas that the old plank supports. One is the island and dishwasher. The other is the fridge cabinet. I will upload pictures because I am not sure how to work through those.
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This is the island which seems about the same issue.
I removed the old plank near the island up to the kick plate. It’s the same situation on the outside – I have used the multitool to cut the old flooring back to the island. I think I could cut out the inside of the dishwasher space too. But, the countertop is quartz and it’s heavy – All that is holding it up is the island itself. How do I ensure the island doesn’t shift?
Looking forward to your thoughts.
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Thanks Joe.
I can do those things. At first I though I could avoid the 1/4 round but once I started the demo I realized I’d have to use it. All good.
How was your surgery?
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Surgery was good, but recovery has been very slow. The swelling is causing a lot of pain and until just this morning the swelling has not budged. Wow, it is amazing on how much fluid can build up in a knee, lol.
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Yes I had my 1st knee surgery 27 years ago and it was swollen for quite awhile. It was only cartilage removal and clean up but the surgery itself used an old technique. Still, it got back normal more or less over time.
I have some questions about the flooring prep as I have some dips between joists, specifically more in and around the starting area pointing to the sliding door. Do I post those here?