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General ideas
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Yes, you can post here.
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I attaching a drawing as it is easier to see what I mean. Overall it’s more the framers didn’t put the crown right-side up on the joists. The worst spot is the fridge area which is at least 1/4″ after that it’s the landings near the main floor entrance and near the washroom but those areas are 3/16 or less. The dark areas are the dips.
I watched your video and am being cautious as I don’t want to mess it up but I do have some concrete experience including troweling and screed work so I really just need to know if my approach to solving this problem is a good idea.
Thanks Joe.
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yes, screeding these areas would be best.
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Well i’ve done a decent job on the main floor prep. It’s not perfect but it is a lot better than it was. Now I am right on the verge of starting. I have watched the blueprint and followed your direction about where to start and I have some thoughts:
- The hallway near the closet is 36 1/4 inches wide, the middle is 18 1/8 inches (which was to be the starting point) and the planks are 9 inches wide. if i start from that line, we get into some situations in the kitchen that i don’t like – there would be too many small strips and lot of cuts in the dishwasher area.
- The hallway near the island is 51 inches wide – if we build our centre line from that, we get a pretty nice layout and everything is very easy from there. The only issue with my idea is the stoop where step onto the main floor. I don’t really understand how to end the plank there and use an overlapping stair nose. The grey coloured area is thin set so I’m thinking I will have to remove some of the thin set and put some of those strips you showed in a video for stair nosing and how to build it up before attaching the overlapping stair nose.
Would you be able to look at the photos of the stoop and advise me of what you would do the finish that?
Thank you Joe.
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I think the layout is working pretty much the same even with me having moved it over. I am enjoying this project and will post some photos in public section when done.
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Hi Joe.
I am the type of student that needs as much information as I can get.
I am having some struggles and had to start over. The entrance to the main floor is still where I need a better understanding of how to finish it. A piece of plank is attached to the first row and stops right near the edge – pic attached. The questions are:
- I watched the video about stair nosings – the overlapping stair nose is the proper transition, is that correct? Why I ask that is I that is because I have some plank nosings for the other stairs and landings. I don’t want to use the wrong piece for the transition.
- If the overlapping stair nose is correct does it matter if I have to cut the plank back to make the transition work?
Thanks Joe.
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Built stair nosings
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Hi Joe.
looks like I did not think my way through this – enough. I somehow missed the gap between the new floor height and the door jambs. I have not gotten real far since last night so I could pull it back up and lay down some 1/4 inch subfloor. What would you do in this situation? Picks attached.
Thanks yet again
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Hi Joe.
Had a week off from work after 2 years and I really needed that to unwind. That gave me some time to read up on things to do with the SPC warranty and work on the carpet removal from the stairs.
I did read through the SPC manufacturer warranty and while the reseller did not specify an underlayment was needed/required, the warranty does. That meant supply chain issues which set me back a bit but I am expecting the order to arrive late this week.
Onto the stairs, to answer your question, I had the stairs nosings made. I knew how they did it but I stay out that kind of thing as they are the pros and I would have wasted valuable time 😉
I had a lot of prep work to do on stairs but I got them sorted and ready for the installation process. I seem to recall you used a jigsaw and a table saw at different points in some of your videos. For my lack of space, I have a 4 1/2 inch circular saw and I thought a 40 tooth blade would work well while using a jig to ensure straight lines. It did work but I did experience some chipping on the edge of a stair nose. I am wondering what type of fine tooth blade you would recommend? I definitely don’t want more chipping.
Thanks for your insights and advice Joe.
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Did you try to use blue tape? I would try blue tape and duct tape over the nosing where you will be cutting. This should stop the chipping. I use an 80 tooth blade on my chop saw.
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Hey Jpoe.
I did try a layer of low adhesion tape – the purple type. However the chips still happened… I ordered another blade with more teeth and will test out some cuts on the scraps.
Can I ask you another few questions?
What is the safest and most acceptable prep on the SPC/vinyl plank prior to gluing them down?
I have seen videos and read where some people strip the pad off the tread or riser yet others glue them down as is. It seems there is no definitive answer to the question of gluing down SPC to treads or risers. Would you be able to give me some advice on that topic?
Lastly, is it preferable to only glue down risers or can brad nails and glue be used?
I know you have given me a lot of encouragement and direction – I appreciate your help Joe!
Thanks very much.
–james
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Hi Joe.
I almost finished the main floor now that I received the underlay. I have a concern that the butt joints are making noise but that seems to resolve itself with some careful mallet work! I use some force but not enough to cause any damage and I also use some underlay over the joint then use my tapping block on top and hit that. Any thoughts on that?
I did read about gluing the butt joints last row down and in my case I decided the 3 1/2 inch strip was secure enough where the baseboard will hold down the long edge near the wall. I will post some pics when I have last rows completed. So close to the end!
Back to the stairs, maybe it’s my brad nail technique but I ended up with some blowout around the brad nails on the on the first riser near the floor – in fact some of them just bent. SPC is way harder than vinyl plank… the edge used to have the groove on it which I removed to give a nice finish to the edge and maybe it’s just harder on the edges than the middle. I have been gluing down and using scrap plank to push the riser into the face and also on top of the read. It’s seems to work reasonably well.
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