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KrogsrudHouse
The drawing is not to scale. The hallway is 36”. The bedroom/closets, laundry, hall closet, kitchen, dining, and living room will be in same direction with no transitions. Hopefully 😊
Already purchased Lifeproof Vinyl Plank flooring cherry dusk 7mm 8.66” X 47.64”. My plan is to run it down the hall and same direction in all rooms (My guess from your videos).
The two bathrooms will be same brand of flooring but different size and color than main flooring (looks like tiles 6.5mm 12” X 23.82”). Bedroom bathroom will be in same direction as bedroom flooring. The main bathroom will be same tile flooring but in 90 degrees to hallway flooring. I removed the particle board floors in both bathrooms so all the subflooring in the entire house is the same height.
Question: Bathroom flooring stops under door and then transition to house flooring?
Question: Transition strip is house flooring color starting under door into hallway and main bedroom or the other way around?
Question: Is it possible to have a transition and no transition strip? Subfloor is same height. flooring is different by .5mm.
Question: where to start for house. My guess is start at the end of the hall. The door frame is butt up against the end wall of the hall for the Main bedroom and 6” from the end wall for bedroom #1. Once inside the main bedroom and bedroom #1 I have a wall that sticks out to create a closet space in each room.
Question: Four planks equal 34 5/8” wide hallway is 36” wide. Which way do I move them over to leave a wide plank strip running down each side of the hallway and not get myself into trouble once inside the main bedroom and bedroom #1?
Question: What lengths do I start with on each side of hallway? Is there a pattern to follow to make planks appear random? It looks like there are four different wood patterns running in two directions with tongue and groove locked together.
Bedroom/bathroom doors are 30” hall closet is 24”.
Hallway Walls:
Bedroom side: 6” to door frame – 30” door – 9’5” to bedroom #2 door frame 7” between BR#2 and hall closet door frames – 24” hall door 5 1/4” wall and then opens into dining room
Laundry side: main bedroom door frame butt up against end wall – 30” door – 45 ¼” to laundry opening – 6 ¼” from hall opening to bathroom door frame – 6 ½” from bathroom door frame to entryway/living room.
Question: If Island counter is not lined up with hallway wall does that impact direction to shift planks in hall? Counter is slightly into line of path of hallway.
Thank you for your help and creating this site and videos.
Kevin
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This discussion was modified 1 year, 1 month ago by
kevin.krogsrud.
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This discussion was modified 1 year, 1 month ago by
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19 Replies
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Hi Joe,
Thanks for all your help. We hope you’re enjoying your long weekend. We took a couple of pictures to help show the areas you asked about. I hope we answered all of your questions.
We would like flooring to run east to west long way down hall.
Bathroom tile will be brick pattern.
Question: For floor vents in this case in bathroom is it better to have the cutout in center of tile or start at seam. The floor vent is 4’ from tub which is two tiles. Should I start that row with a half tile to have cutout in center of tile?
Question: Can we put the vanity on flooring? A portion of the front of the vanity will show the flooring past the front legs. Picture: vanity.jpeg
Black box on diagram is only in bedroom #1 and is a HVAC vent running from ceiling to floor. Bedroom #1 picture.
Floor at front door needs to come up 1”. Area with rolled up carpet and Dewalt box (in frontdoor.jpeg picture) needs to come up 1”. My plan was to use plywood ¾” then step down to ½” then step down to ¼” and then level from original subfloor in middle of house to the top of ¾” plywood next to door to minimize feather finish needed.
Question: Is that a good idea or just use all feather finish?
Question: Can you walk on feather finish once dry, or will it crack? I mean high traffic directly on feather finish until we install new flooring in the kitchen as we will be waiting 1-3 months for cabinets. Or wait to level floors to just before laying new flooring?
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I will get on this today and I will go through your questions as well.
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Hi Joe,
No rush from our end. Enjoy your holiday. We have painting to do in a few rooms today. We plan to do the bathroom first and then move to leveling the slope in the front entry this coming weekend 2/26-2/27. We had the joist fixed underneath so the floor won’t continue to settle. We hope to get started on the main flooring 3/5-3/6.
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Hi Joe,
I can’t begin to tell you how much help this has been, and we haven’t even started the floors yet. I forgot the bathroom floorplans. It is added and another picture.
The entry is all the same level of floor but sinks down an inch with a straight edge/8’ level laid down. Slopes down one inch from the broom in the picture to the front door. Slopes in same direction the box and rolled up carpet is running. I found the Ardex feather finish you recommended. I bought 2 10# bags. If it is the best I will buy a few more bags. I would rather do it right the first time.
The L-shaped front bathroom we will do first and then the main bedroom bathroom after main flooring (square and still has flooring) so we have one working bathroom.
The kitchen layout/footprint will stay the same we are planning on installing new cabinets. They are standard cabinets. I think standard cabinets are all the same footprint.
Questions: Can I lay the floor and then install the new cabinets and cover any gaps between new cabinets and flooring with trim? I think this would be the best option to finish the entire floor.
Thanks,
Kevin
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The stove in the above kitchen picture is slide away from wall a few inches. It is the same depth as the cabinets.
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Hi Joe,
Thanks for offering to help with suggestions for leveling out the front door floor area. I am new at this, and my idea probably might not be the best option. The floor slopes evenly to the front door ¾” – 1″ in total. It also slopes down on both sides toward the wall. My idea to reduce the amount of feather finish was to use a piece of plywood where the white floor is next to the door (between walls) on the floor and then step down to a thinner piece and then cover the entire area outlined with the green line with feather finish. This will make the entire entry way and living room level. It might be better to just feather finish the entire area and forget about the plywood. The white area on the floor by the front door looks to me like some kind of leveling was removed when the last flooring was installed. To be honest the white square gave me the idea for the plywood. The house was built in 1977 and the joist under the floor was just reinforced to prevent further sinking. The small white triangle area is self-lever from prior flooring. I guess 1″ slope towards the door makes it easier for people to leave when you’re tired of them. Haha Sorry for all of the long-winded explanations.
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Here is your main blueprint – http://somup.com/c3n0bcTINJ
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Kevin, would you say that the measurements in the bathrooms are accurate?
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Hi Joe, yes, the measurements are accurate for both bathrooms. The bathtub is not included in the measurements. We considered the tub a wall and included them in the diagram so you knew the layout. Everything inside the black outline is the flooring area.
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Here are the blueprints for the bathrooms – http://somup.com/c3nZDoToxv
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Hi Joe,
We are from California north of Sacramento in the foothills. This weekend was nice and today was 70 but heading back to the 50’s. Sorry, I got side tracked for a few days. We put in a tankless water heater and the shower valve that was not producing hot water in the long bathroom affected the other valve and I had to replace both to get hot water. I found new valves both 30+ years old but then ran into issues finding the trim to fit these old models. Well I finally found the trim to fit and now I ran into this tile issue. The old tub spout had a thin plastic cover between the tile and the spout. After I replaced the spout, I noticed the gap the plastic was hiding on the wall side away from where you step in. I need to figure out how to fill the gap so water doesn’t leak behind the wall. The new one is square but here is a couple of pictures of the gap and old spout. I should be back on the floors later this week. Never worked with tile so don’t even know where to start. Hoping all goes well with getting your surgery scheduled and this time does the trick. I’ll give you an update when I get the bathroom floor laid. Take care and stay warm. Talk to you in a few days. Thanks again for all of your help.
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This reply was modified 1 year ago by kevin.krogsrud.
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This reply was modified 1 year ago by
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Joe, I cannot thank you enough brother. From tips to tools you made this a very fun experience. Running a few weeks behind but finished the first bathroom today. I used a lot of your techniques already. I never thought all that flooring would easily slide across the floor once laid but it does. I made a temp threshold out of an old scrap to roll the vanity into the room and keep the floor tight against the tub. One mistake around the toilet flange.
The feather finish is tricky. One question before moving to the big job of floor prep in the entry/living room. Can you mix in more water than they say on the bag during first mix? Also, the bag says to work the mix into the subfloor before adding height to get a good bond. Do you recommend a skim coat worked into the subfloor and then adding a second layer to get the ¼ to ½ inch of height? In your wall video it looks like you level it in one application (not including finishing you mention). I can’t move that fast of course. Maybe I’m mixing it to thick or just need experience but the close quarters in the bathroom was a challenge to say the least. Most of first half bag made it to the trash. Haha. Hope all is well. Kevin and Kim.
