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  • Concrete subfloor prep

    Posted by benlewis71 on October 8, 2022 at 12:19 pm

    Hi Joe, I’m a new subscriber, first post. I want to install LVP in my 5 x 7 full bathroom. I have several questions for you but will start with subfloor prep. I’m using Coretec Fusion LVP that has already been installed in the rest of the house. The bathroom floor is down to the concrete slab and it has a 4′ x 4′ patch where it was excavated for sewer repair. The patch dips about 1/2″ at the deepest near the toilet flange. It had some rough high spots that I grinded down. The rest of the concrete is flat but not level. I’m thinking I dont need level, just flat. Been watching your videos and learning. I’m thinking the Ardex Feather Finish or Henrys 549 is what I should use to fill the dip. Do you agree? I’ll be applying it around the toilet flange and hope this wont cause any issues. I have no experience working with these products. How should I clean the concrete? (Been living on it for two months) I was thinking wire brush, soap and water, vacuum. I don’t know but I think I will need to do two coats. I figure I will want to screed the Ardex to get it flat w the rest of the floor using a 2×4. Is this a good way to go? Will also use a trowel.

    I have additional questions regarding drywall down touching concrete. Should it be trimmed to allow LVP under it?

    There is currently a transition where the LVP in the hall met the tile that used to be be in bathroom. Ideally I’d remove the transition (any best practice for this?) and continue the LVP but I’m not sure how to approach this since the last piece in the doorway was trimmed. Maybe remove it and start w full piece or leave and continue in some way?

    I’m also trying to figure out transition to tub when the planks will run perpendicular to it.

    Been watching lots of videos. More q’s to come.

    Thank you!

    Ben

    Joe replied 1 year, 7 months ago 2 Members · 9 Replies
  • 9 Replies
  • Joe

    Administrator
    October 10, 2022 at 9:22 am
  • benlewis71

    Member
    October 10, 2022 at 5:42 pm

    Thank you Joe. Very cool service you provide.

    I pulled up the existing transition in the doorway from the hall (LVP) to bathroom (currently concrete). Looks like the installer that did the lvp in rest of the house used some type of leveling compound (pic attached). So, seems I will need to feather this out in order to continue smoothly into bathroom. I’m thinking this should be fairly straight forward using the Ardex? I already plan to use the Ardex to flatten the dip in the center of the room near toilet flange.

    Thank you and have a great day!

    Ben Lewis

  • Joe

    Administrator
    October 10, 2022 at 6:22 pm
    • benlewis71

      Member
      October 11, 2022 at 8:30 pm

      https://cloud.smartdraw.com/share.aspx/?pubDocShare=83B45D64E8232B1C966E784E070E2B53B62https://cloud.smartdraw.com/share.aspx/?pubDocShare=83B45D64E8232B1C966E784E070E2B53B62

      Ok, thx. I think I will do the T transition. I just did a smartdraw to share with you. Not sure how necessary it is with just the bathroom getting done. It’s not to scale.

      I almost have the floor flat w Ardex. Taking longer than I figured as usual. Didn’t quite get it done in two coats.

      I watched the videos you recommended thx. Bunch more too. Slowly learning.

      I will put in baseboards and a vanity. My plan is put vanity on top of LVP. I understand this can be risky but if I use a vanity with legs it should be ok. Thoughts?

      Questions: You mentioned starting at the tub. My original plan was to keep the LVP orientation from the rest of the house and this would put the planks perpendicular to the tub. Any thoughts on this? I suppose I could change the orientation to make the tub transition easier but not sure since it won’t be consistent with the rest of the house. I am having some trouble getting straight cuts with the jigsaw for the tub edge.

      Thank you Joe.

  • Joe

    Administrator
    October 12, 2022 at 4:46 am

    https://somup.com/c36lQGvQF9

    the vanity can go in after the install.

  • benlewis71

    Member
    October 12, 2022 at 10:08 am

    Ok, thx for that. After the last talk I was gonna do a T transition as suggested in order to avoid having to feather the floor out in the doorway since its a dash higher in the hall and leave that last piece in place. Based on this I guess I will remove that last piece and feather out the subfloor to allow for no transition.

  • Joe

    Administrator
    October 12, 2022 at 1:02 pm
  • benlewis71

    Member
    October 12, 2022 at 2:57 pm

    Ok, got it. I’m not sure which is best (using a transition or removing the last piece and connecting)but I think I’m leaning toward using a transition so I dont have to feather. At least thats kinda what I’ve started. But I started at the door and am already screwing up some things. Currently no planks in. Anyway, I have some pics of my planks. I dont know which way the current ones are running without cutting up that last piece. Hope I captured what you need in these pics. Screwed up the cut around the tile. I appreciate your patience.

  • Joe

    Administrator
    October 13, 2022 at 8:00 am

    Here is your blueprint – https://somup.com/c36IlRvXOo

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