-
Bueprint Request
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PJxfQIC5Wcs&feature=youtu.beHi Joe,
Your guidance was incredibly helpful when doing the 2 bathrooms on the 2nd floor of my house. They went well enough that my wife said I am ready to tackle the rest of the 2nd floor. The one thing that my wife does want to go with, at least to try is the flush mount bullnose. I’d like to give this a shot to start with.
I think it may make it more difficult as I need to be exact to get the plank to line up next to the bullnose. To add to this complexity, for me anyways, is that that left wall (when walking up the stairs) does not go all the way to the top of the steps. There is a small railing, 2 balusters, 1 post on the left side. The post comes up through the subfloor that I can see so I am not sure how to get the post out, so I am going to leave it and work around it.
Have you had to work around a post but install new balusters? The height of the old floor to the new floor will be different so I think will need to either reinstall the existing ones or install new ones. I have not done anything with balusters before. I have added some pictures to help as I may not be explaining it well. I think it is called a return, so I will have to 45 the ends to get them to line up, but also work around or cope around the post. This is the 2nd part I am most concerned about, working around the post.
I am thinking if it’s best to start in a bedroom, I’d like to start in bedroom 1 as it is the closest to getting to the flush mount bull nose and if I have to undo what I have already done, it seems to be least amount of work. Though I do not know if starting in the hallway with the bullnose is best, even though it would add a lot more of working backwards.
I am using Flooret Craftsman plank. I have the measurements as 3 5/16″ x 72″. I was surprised that it was a straight 72 without the locking system. I would have preferred the width not be a x/16th but rather 1/2 or 1/4. I have also measured out the 10 planks and came out to 33 7/16 or 33 6/16, but when I do the actual math 3 5/16 X 10, I get a different answer 33 1/8. Which should I go with, the actual measurement from the tape measure?
Flooret states that the locking system needs to be cut off the bullnose to use with the craftsman plan. I get a measurement of 3 11/16″ without the locking system. I assume you know this, but this was the video that flooret directed us regarding using the bullnose. They suggested starting watching at the 1:08. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PJxfQIC5Wcs&feature=youtu.be
We would like the plank to run the long ways, east – west (left-right) in the floor diagram.
I appreciate your help with this and look forward to the blueprint and your guidance. Let me know what other information you need or what additional pictures would help.
Thanks,
Brian
-
This discussion was modified 3 months, 3 weeks ago by
touhey.brian.
-
This discussion was modified 3 months, 3 weeks ago by
-
14 Replies
-
Hi, I do not know why the URL is in multiple places nor why I seem unable to edit the post. I apologize for the weirdness of that post.
-
-
Hi Joe,
Everything was clear in my head, but did not transfer to my post. Sorry about that.
That black box on the subfloor is an area that I need to sand down. You can ignore that and any other marks on the subfloor. I am still working on getting the subfloor level and screwed down to stop the squeaks.
The post, balusters and railing are staying exactly where they are. That last piece of hardwood flooring will be removed to expose the subfloor, fingers crossed tomorrow morning. My 3year old twins are not fans of loud noises nor me working and not playing during play time on the weekends. Play time is anytime they are awake, according to them. That is the last piece of old flooring to come up in the hallway. I wanted to carefully cut it away with a multi tool to see how the balusters were installed. I believe that I will have to replace the balusters as I believe there will be a height difference between the old hardwood floor and the new lvp floor. I am hopeful that I can reuse the balusters, but I do think they will be too short and will be unable to use them again. This is why I want to carefully remove them, just in case I can reuse them.
After I wrote the initial post, I did tell my wife that I expected you to recommend the overlapping bull nose. I have watched other blueprint videos and your video on stairs. I even played her some of your video on using the overlapping stair nose after I made that post, figuring she would want to hear it in your voice. She said that she doesn’t like the look of the overlapping bullnose at all. She does understand about the space for expansion though. She reminded me a lot about that when doing the bathrooms. She did order the overlapping bullnose today before we watched your latest video to see how it will look in person. It should be here in a couple days.
When you planned the bathrooms for me there were areas where I think I remember you stating that I could get closer than the 1/4 inch and it should not be an issue. This was against the bottom of the vanity and the tub. You suggested cutting both locking systems to create a 2nd cheater board to use. Does the LV tile not expand as much as LVP or are smaller rooms or bathrooms not a place where expansion is really concerned?
I do plan on getting the last of the flooring off tomorrow and will upload pictures and provide my thoughts for that area.
Thanks,
Brian
-
-
-
Hi Joe,
Here are some new pictures. The dark brown strip on the top of the stairs is a temp cover I added to protect the top of the rug on that top riser. It will be removed when the floor gets installed. The subfloor stops at the top of the stairs.
I was able to get the last of the old flooring up and removed the spindles. The spindles were not nailed in, the bottom had a dowel that went in the bottom hole and the top went into the holes in the bottom of the railing. There are holes in the subfloor as well which aligned with the holes in the hardwood floor. Using, cardboard I made a template of the holes to be able to transfer the holes to the new floor once installed. I took a tip from you video of installing around the toilet flange and an angles wall with the cardboard.
What to do with the white board that is perpendicular to the stairs? Do I need to cut that board back so the bull nose doesn’t stick further out into the stairs?
Thanks for the info on the expansion spacing.
Is it possible to work the layout so that the overlapping bullnose is exactly parallel with the planks at the top the top of the stairs, which are straight down the hallway?
Can the bullnoses be ripped if needed to make it line up?
How do we keep the boards parallel with all the walls running east – west, or does that depend on the skill of the installer by getting the reference lines right and keeping the boards straight?
Thanks,
Brian
-
-
Hi Joe,
Thanks for the time you are putting into this. I was not expecting this to be as complicated, but I am appreciative of your wisdom and being able to identify things that warrant attention up front. We did get the overlapping stair nose and after staring at the stairs for what was probably hours, I cut the bullnose to see what a 45 would look like. I tried to attach pictures of the test piece, but it would not work. I’ll try again tomorrow. We do like the way this looks and have decide to move in this direction.
We will use the overlapping stair nose at the top of the stairs for all of it, using 45s at the inside and outside corners. I’ll need to figure out how to cut get the shape and cut that small return piece, with your wisdom, I hope.
What do I use as a shim under the overlapping stair nose?
Do I just drill the right size hole in the plank for the spindles?
I think I mentioned it before, we do want to make sure that the planks are parallel with the bullnose so it all looks right when coming up the stairs. I am not sure if that aligns with keeping them straight in the hallway along the walls. I need to draw some lines and measure. Have you found that the hallway will line up with the top of the stair? I wished I looked before we took the hardwood floor up.
Do I need to fill any gaps between the subfloor boards? does it matter of they are perpendicular or parallel to how the planks will lay? What about gouges in the floor from pulling up the hardwood floor?
What additional info do you need from me or what else do we need to think of?
Thanks,
Brian
-
-
Hi Joe,
I would like to start in bedroom 1. That is my daughters’ bedroom and I would like to get that done first instead of the guest bedroom which is bedroom 3. The 2 pottys in the hallway picture belong to them. I am thinking bedroom 1 then then the hallway down to bedroom 3. I will most likely need to do the whole floor over a couple days so having a few stopping points would be great.
You are also correct. I would like the plank to run longways left to right when looking at the layout picture.
Thanks for the info on making the hole in the blank bigger for the spindles. I would not have thought of that. The new ones will be of similar style as the old ones.
Brian
-
-
I will get this to you tomorrow Brian.
-
-
Hi Joe,
Glad to hear you are feeling better.
I am good to start in bedroom 3. Whatever you think best . . and easiest.
Thanks,
Brian
-
-
Here is your blueprint – https://somup.com/cZnh33piUh
Log in to reply.