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Blueprint – Jim’s Basement
Hi Joe,
Attached is my blueprint for my basement project. There are a 4 pages in the pdf. I am installing Lifeproof vinyl plank. Here are my initial questions:
1) What is best for plank direction?
2) I contracted out self-leveling for concrete slab. They only applied leveler to the start of doorway thresholds in hallway (see ‘Hallway leveler lips’ picture on page 2). Should I add more self-leveler or thinset so the transition is more towards middle of door threshold?
3) Page 3 of pdf shows a pic from my builder’s plan. I think this suggests I have a vapor barrier underneath slab. I live in Minnesota as well so it gets cold. Do you think it is safe to install plank straight on the slab?
4) There is a sewer cleanout in middle of family room. Based on picture on page 2, do you think I can hide under planks? Do you think I can cut tongue of planks on top of cleanout so I can still service cleanout if there is an emergency?
5) Patio door transition. Do you think I can glue down a transition piece like you did in one of your videos?
6) Can I screw down toilet flange directly on top of new planks or must flange go straight on slab?
7) Lifeproof suggest installing bathroom vanities on floor before installing plank. Do you think it would be OK to install vanity directly on plank?
Thanks !
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35 Replies
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Hi Joe,
Thank you for responding. I live in northwestern suburbs, west of Elk River.
I’m not sure why the pdf doesn’t seem to be coming up in color for you in your editor.
I think we can close-out the following questions with the help from your videos: 3,5,6,7.
Here are remaining issues:
1) Plank direction: I’m wondering if we put the planks down horizontally to the diagram (N-S). This would be similar to my upstairs. Can I snap a line down hallway like you do in videos and start in NE corner of the family room? The only issue I see is that the entrance to basement might get in way of snapping a line, I’m hoping I could offset the line to clear door?
2) Original question: I contracted out self-leveling for concrete slab. They only applied leveler to the start of doorway thresholds in hallway (see ‘Hallway leveler lips’ picture on page 2). Should I add more self-leveler or thinset so the transition is more towards middle of door threshold?
New comment/questions: The bedroom wasn’t self-levelled, apparently it was level enough. Therefore, I have small lips on both bedroom and utility room entrances (3/16″ and 1/8″, respectively). I plan on doing bedroom with the vinyl plank as well. The mechanical/utility room would be left unfinished. Please let me know what is best based on plank direction.
4) Original question: There is a sewer cleanout in middle of family room. Based on picture on page 2, do you think I can hide under planks? Do you think I can cut tongue of planks on top of cleanout so I can still service cleanout if there is an emergency?
New comment/questions: The cleanout is flush with floor. I’m hoping I can hide under planks and do what you suggest by writing down coordinates somewhere so in case of emergency we can access it.
Jim
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Hi Joe,
Regarding the bedroom and utility room entrances:
- Is it best for utility room to apply self-leveler to bring up area to hallway? Maybe use a board like shown in attached pic as a keep-out? Or would ardex feather finish be best?
- Would you suggest tapering in the hallway to bedroom transition using ardex feather finish? I would also be ok with a transition if it made things easier.
Regarding the sewer cleanout I will plan on installing plank over the cleanout and not remove any locking mechanisms.
I do wish to go N-S for plank direction and would be OK with starting in SW corner. Regarding a blueprint schedule on Thursday, does that mean a one-on-one zoom meeting or does that mean you will just schedule time for yourself to create a video?
Thanks,
Jim
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Joe,
Regarding floor prep in the hallway to bedroom and utility room transitions. To reduce costs can I use Ardex feather finish instead of self-leveler in utility room transition? Maybe screed the feather finish? I just don’t know if feather finish is made for this scenario. If possible, do you think one bag would be enough to cover booth doorways and would one coat work?
I look forward to the blueprint video on Thursday. thanks again,
Jim
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Yes, it will work well in both doors. 1 bag will be plenty.
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Here is your blueprint – https://somup.com/cZn30vp4qn
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Links to those videos – https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UII0yYikEe8
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Joe,
Thank you. The blueprint video was excellent.
I had a question on floor prep again. I did order the Ardex feather finish. I have the 3/16″ height difference between hallway and bedroom (hall is higher). What would be your estimate on how far into bedroom I would need to go with Ardex? I’m just concerned with the doorway not being level since I will not be using a transition piece.
Attached is picture as reference:
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Joe,
Thanks again. I was wondering if a transition like this would work between hallway and mechanical room (LVP to concrete):
Or would you recommend something beefier? My concern is that the LVP to concrete could be approximately 12 mm difference in height.
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Hi Joe,
I am struggling on aspects of transitions. I am thinking of using reducers on both hallway to bedroom and hallway to utility room thresholds. The hallway to bedroom would be a 3/16″ transition (LVP to LVP). The hallway to utility room would be a 0.4″ inch transition (LVP to concrete). Here are my questions:
- Material. Is it OK to use laminate or hardwood transition pieces for LVP? Here are some examples:
- Installation. Would I use a track if it comes with transition? Can I just use adhesive and glue like in your videos?
Would I need to prime bottom of transition piece if it is made from wood, since it would be contacting concrete?
I intend to have a horizontal expansion gap, but was wondering if it is desired to keep a gap between lip and top of LVP to allow up-and-down expansion?
Thanks, Jim
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Joe, I had some questions on securing floor to concrete like shown in this video:
https://laminateuniversity.sothatshowyoudothat.com/lessons/securing-the-floor-on-a-concrete-slab/
I bought a glue gun that you suggested and did a test run. I used some glue sticks I found at home depot. I tested securing by gluing down a wood shim on bare concrete.
When I pried the shim off concrete it took off a little piece of concrete. When I do it for real it will be on self-leveler.
My questions are:
- Is it normal to pull off a little concrete?
- Does the glue type matter?
- Would self-leveler act even worse?
- When I secure should I keep the pad on the scrap plank piece?
Thanks, Jim
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Joe, thanks again.
To make life easier I was thinking of going with the <b style=”font-family: inherit; font-size: inherit; color: var(–bb-body-text-color);”>9″ EZ Shear by Bullet Tools cutter on your tools link. Do you think it would work OK with 7mm thick plank?
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Yes!
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Joe,
I have attached a pic of blueprint. I’ve highlighted the East wall. I noticed this wall has some bowing in and out but stays straight within 3/16″ or so. Can I use this wall as a reference line for snapping other lines?
Due to application of self-levelling I have areas where sheet rock is at same level as slab, while other areas have a gap where I have clearance to install plank under sheet rock. It would be quite a bit of work to remove sheet rock in the areas where it would interfere with plank. Is it OK to install plank under sheet rock where there is clearance and use spacers where there isn’t? I did get some of those red adjustable spacers.
Thanks, Jim
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Joe, I have tried centering plank in my short hallway to see how things end up all over my basement. See attached photo. I have also reattached basement blueprint as reference.
My plank is about 8-3/4″ wide (not counting the locking mechanism).
I end up with 2 3/4″ pieces along the hallway itself. I should, though, be able to end the width of the plank in the center of the door thresholds.
The east wall would end up with a 6-1/2″ wide plank. The patio door threshold (N-E wall) would be an extra 4″, but if I use a end cap I think I may be able to end close to a full width of plank. If not, I would have to use a very narrow plank to fill in extra.
The west wall would end up with a 2-3/4″ wide plank.
The crawl space jut-out would end up with 6-1/2″ wide plank.
The entry door jut-out would end up with a 6-3/4″ wide plank.
Do you think this is satisfactory? When I tried moving the plank in hallway 1/2 plank width like shown in your videos I noticed some issues, so I was hoping what I describe above is OK.
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Yes , this will work.
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Joe, Thanks.
I was looking at this video a bit more: https://youtu.be/4Gy_f0uPow8?list=PL5lIWAV5RKQM4v_uL3xvQ3dsXhHBlOr8-&t=263
In the video you install the initial row against wall and then insert the adjustable spacers. Is this an alternative option over securing scraps to concrete and then coming back to the wall edge at end of installation? What are the pros and cons of each method? Was the reason you did it this way in video was that it was drop and lock and it is hard to work backwards?
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Joe,
I have made progress with installation (see jim_1.jpg photo attachment). I do have some concerns and questions though as I start to turn corners.
- As you can see in jim_2.jpg photo there is only about a 2 inch plank around entry door. This was due to getting hallway centered and having long-side of plank centered in hall to bedroom threshold. I am going transition-less at hall to bedroom threshold. Do you see any issues with a 2 inch plank?
- jim_3.jpg photo shows my entry door threshold. I do have carpet in landing area and wondered what to do. Should I try to remove the existing metal transition piece and roll-back carpet? Your blueprint video suggested securing scrap pieces in landing area to keep plank straight during installation down hallway (I don’t think I explained well that there was carpet in landing area).
Thanks,
Jim
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Joe, sorry for confusion. The 2″ piece is the area between the red snapped line in photos and the stairway door (not the crawl space doorway or hallway). This is shown in jim_2.jpg. The plank at bottom of photo is going into crawl space.
I did adjust hallway center point to ensure long edge of plank lands in bedroom threshold. That way I can go transitionless into bedroom.
I did have a question on the temporary scrap pieces that I have glued to concrete slab. I made assumption that I should leave the locking mechanism that mates to rows in place so that they lock to rows. Is that OK? I am worried about breaking locking mechanisms on planks that are locked to temporary pieces when I eventually pry the scrap pieces off the concrete.
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Joe,
I have made good progress and just have my bathroom left.
However, I noticed a deformity in a plank shown in picture. It think it was due to the pounding down of end joint. I didn’t notice it until after did a few more rows.
I don’t mind how it looks but I am concerned it could peel up with time. It is in the hallway near bathroom. I would need to pull up a few installed rows to replace it.
Do you think I should worry about it peeling up with time? If I do replace, should I use new planks in the rows I removed (I am not clear on whether locking mechanism is a one and done thing or if it can be relocked).
Thanks,
Jim
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