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Starting in hallway almost perfect fit boards with doorjambs
I will be flooring all 3 bedrooms with Flooret’s Modin Signature LVP (9″ x 72″). I plan on running my boards longways down the hall and working forwards into the 3 bedrooms. The hallway from baseboard to baseboard measures 36 1/4″ and my cheat sheet for 4 planks measures 35 7/8″, leaving about 3/16″ of a gap on either side. I do plan on using 3/4″ quarter round at the baseboards.
First off, given that my walls/baseboards aren’t perfectly straight, which wall should I try to measure of for my mid-line straight line down the hallway?
Secondly, the seam is right off the baseboard, so installing the first plank in the rooms, would have the entire doorjamb covered by that first plank. As is with the doorjambs cut, it would leave a bit of a gap at the seam into the hallway (doorjamb 1 and 2 pics). I may have to try to cut into the 2×4 behind the doorjamb, about 5/8″ in order to slide the doorway plank more under the door casing. Which may still leave a small gap just in front of the casing.
Thirdly, I don’t think the door casings are straight with what my starting midline would be. So having a plank running down the length of the hallway straight, it appears it could leave a 1/4″ gap in front of the casing. How could I handle a gap there?
It almost fits so perfectly with the 4 planks, I would hate to have to shift everything half a plank to get it fit the door jambs and casings better.
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23 Replies
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Thank you so much! I appreciate your timeliness! I think with doing a seam in the middle of the doorways like you suggested, I can try to cut a U shape around the door jamb, so that almost an inch or so will be on the hallway side to cover up that seam as best I can. I have attached a few more pictures of that specific doorway and closet behind it of the other room.
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Hi Joe,
Thanks again for your prompt responses. I truly appreciate being able to get started with the first few rows today. I think other than the door jambs already discussed, my biggest concern is how to cover the stairs as well. I plan on covering the front of risers with the same plank as well, and I anticipate on using the overlapping stair nosing from Flooret for all of the steps unless you have suggestions for otherwise. I don’t know how handle the balusters coming through the plank. I believe the holes for them may have been drilled after the carpet was installed because the was a lot of saw dust surrounding that top one I uncovered. I also don’t know how to best end the planks at the top of the stairs or railing. Ideally, I think I would want to cover that existing wood nose with the overlapping nose because it’s not in great shape. I am eager to hear your thoughts. Please let me know if you need any other pictures to complete my blue print.
Thank you so much for your time!
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Here is your blueprint – https://somup.com/c0iIoIzupA
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Once again, thank you so much for your timeliness!
I was able to follow your explanation with the double cheater board method for the doorjambs around 22:00 mark. My only concern is that I’m needing scribe the doorjamb under the casing, and I likely wouldn’t be able to fit the cheater board under the casing with that fourth hallway plank glued into place. So I anticipate having to dry fit that to finish the hall and start in that third room just like you showed, and use scrap pieces to secure that 4th row into place for the time being.
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The last row of all 3 rooms has a floor vent. I might be missing it, but do you have any videos on how to cut out the floor vent?
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This reply was modified 1 year, 1 month ago by
Jason.
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This reply was modified 1 year, 1 month ago by
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Thank you for the advice! After putting together the 4 rows in the hallway, I kind of notice some hairline gaps in some of the seams, along the long edge and couple of the butt joints. It’s in more than one spot. I tried to take some pictures but it doesn’t seem to show up well on camera. The planks didn’t seem to budge any closer together, so I’m not sure if I’m just being too OCD about it. I have seen you mention in other discussions on here that some LVP can have these hairline gaps due to the painted bevel. I’m not sure what your experience has been with Modin Signature.
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Hairline gaps are pretty normal but, are the planks going together nicely? If the plank is not completely straight in that first row, it can cause gaps.
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Yes, they are going together nicely. I did struggle a bit with the plane and glue method for that 4th row. I didn’t realize that the lip had to be perfectly shaved flat otherwise the boards wouldn’t slide together entirely perfectly all the way along. It just took a few more swipes with the mini planer tool which really made it easy.
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Here is a video – https://youtu.be/Gi-rIRSNlzs
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Thank you! I managed to follow your video and got the cut right on my second try haha. The hole was a little too big with my first attempt. But that first bedroom on the right is now complete and looks great!
I am now starting on the left bedroom (last in your blueprint) and had a question about the transition into that left bathroom. There is a 4 inch gap between the subflooring and the tile planks of the bathroom. How can I go about filling in this gap to give the edge of my LVP more strength? I planned on using the T transition piece from Flooret (picture attached, about a 3/4″ track), as this should do fine for the bathroom off the hallway and I’d only need one 6 foot piece from them to do both bathroom transitions. But unfortunately it looks like there will be about a 5/16″ drop to the tile, which from your videos is beyond the recommendation for a T transition. What are your thoughts? Any way to modify T transition so I don’t have to also order the reducer? Thank you so much!
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Thank you for the advice!
I also just did the doorjamb in the hallway of the bedroom. The u-shaped piece around the front with the double chest board method worked quite well to get my planks past the door casing! Your tips were very helpful with this difficult area!
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The transition into the bathroom with the T molding turned out really well by the way! Thank you!
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Well done man!!!
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This reply was modified 1 year, 1 month ago by Joe.
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This reply was modified 1 year, 1 month ago by
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Well done man! These are NOT easy areas to install and you nailed it. You started with the most difficult area, now the rest will be much easier!
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Thank you so much! I did run into a tricky area with the doorjambs of the closet in the middle bedroom that lined up with the first row into the room. I did manage to get it to work though. I still have to finish that bedroom and the closet hallway but this project is really coming together thanks to your help!
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I think we would be okay with leaving the dark finished edging along the hallway up to the post like you described, and then matching the edge of the top landing with the stair edges.
I did pull back the top stair to try to plan ahead how to deal with these. The edges of the others steps appear to be rounded and unfinished, with a square edge past the spindles. And the spindles appear to be glued or epoxied into the railing at the top, so they don’t really budge at all. And the hand rail appears to be nailed into the post at the top, so it may be quite difficult to undo the spindles. I was planning on using the overlapping stair nosing from Flooret (https://www.flooret.com/overlapping-stair-nose/) which is 2 inches wide and could cover up to the spindles to cover the cuts to get the plank around the spindles. But the bottom edge of that nosing only wraps around 1/2″, and the bottom edge sticks out almost 1 3/4″ as I show in my last picture. What are you thoughts on this part of it?
Also is it possible to use underlayment under the planks one the stairs? Would I have to individually glue the underlayment and the plank to the stair?
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Hi Joe,
I definitely think you make a lot of sense. It certainly seems like the prefinished treads would be the much easier way to go. Do you mind walking me through that process and how to finish the hallway floor to the stairs? I believe you mentioned like an end cap or a T molding. I’m curious how to deal with the existing finished nosing at the top of the stairs, if I were to with the prefinished treads
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