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SmartDraw problem
Hi Joe and Hi to anyone else who can help. I drew a floor plan on SmartDraw but when I tried to export it as a JPEG it said you can’t export unless you pay for the program. I was only able to get a link to the program saved as a .sdr file in OneDrive. Are there new instructions for floorplans since the video on the left of the Activity page was done? Thanks, Jonathan
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30 Replies
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Can you take a screenshot of the drawing and share that?
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Hi Joe — Thanks for responding so fast. Word file attached. Also, I would like to pay the additional $100 for a blueprint.
I have watched your videos many times over many months as I have prepared to do our floors. I think I would start on the south (bottom of drawing) wall but maybe north wall? Besides all the doorways/transitions my biggest concern is connecting the top and bottom ends of the living room and kitchen. The hallways are very short.
I am using Ambient Rigidcore SPC Strand Plank, 3′ x 5″, with long tongue on top, end tongue is on left. Total around 1800 sq.ft. I am hoping to do as few transitions a possible but have enough T moldings for all the various doors in case I can’t. I also have matching quarter round for the 3 thresholds as there was no better transition available. I have a couple weeks left where I can return any T moldings I don’t need.
The strand bamboo wear layer has a Janka over 5000 so apparently I have to do all cuts with a fine-tooth blade. I’m removing the molding and will put it back up after the flooring is down.
Anyhow, please let me know if this file is satisfactory.
Thanks, Jonathan
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Here is a link for the upgrade – https://floor-mechanics.thrivecart.com/laminate-university-upgrade/
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Thank you Joe. Tile is remaining in bathrooms. The tile and new flooring are similar in height so T moldings will work at those transitions.
Pics attached. Long tongue facing down, short tongue on right, long groove facing up.
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Wow Joe, that is so helpful! Dec. 6 is good and I will let you know starting point ASAP.
As for the dot in the closet in the northwest bedroom, that is a 12″ wide bit of wall between two 4′ closets, and the southwest bedroom backing up to them is the same — double 4′ closets with 12″ of wall between them.
Every one of the 9 closets has bifold doors. It looks like I will have to remove the floor mounts for every one of them and remount/redrill the slab after the floor is in. I have a feeling it might be awhile before the doors go back up…
Do you think it’s reasonably possible to do this without any transitions other than the bathrooms?
Do you think a typical laminate cutter can give a good cut on this SPC with such a hard wear layer, or am I stuck using a power miter saw?
Thank you for working with us (wife April is fully involved in this project). It has given us a boost in confidence.
Jonathan
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Thanks Joe. I’m thrilled to send back $400 worth of T moldings! I’ll get those various pics to you.
Take care,
Jonathan
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Hi Joe —
We will go with North-South installation starting on the west wall of the southwest bedroom. Thanks for showing us how that will minimize going backwards. We are not in any sort of rushso you don’t have to do the blueprint tomorrow if Wednesday or another day is better for you.
I looked at the bifold doors again and found that the bases are actually screwed to the jambs so that is not an issue – I’ll just reinstall them up a bit.
We had discussed how to finish off where the flooring meets the 3 thresholds. I have attached pics. First one shows threshold #2 that is only 1/2 inch high but the concrete cracked and caused that whole section to drop such that it is 1/4″ lower at the threshold than out at the floor on the other side of the crack. I assume I will need to fill the crack and make that whole area even with the rest of the floor. If I level up that section, the edge of the new flooring will be even with or probably just slightly above the edge of the threshold so do I replace the threshold with a higher one (like the others in the house)? Anyway, suggestions to repair this area?
Pics 1, 3 and 3a show the other two thresholds in the house, which are a different type than #2 and are 1″ high so the flooring would be well below their edge. I have matching 3/4″ quarter-round that would have to be cut down to around 1/2″ to fit but you had mentioned just filling the gap with caulk. Using caulk, how do you make it look good?
Thanks,
Jonathan
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I’ll watch those videos. Thank you Joe!
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here is your blueprint – https://somup.com/c3l13LwZJ8
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Hi Joe —
Thank you for the blueprint. I love all the detail! I have gone through the entire plan for the first time and have taken extensive notes with times for referring back. I am sure we will have questions later as we go along.
4 Questions before we start:
1. The lines you draw with the cheaterboard using a sharpie look like they are 1/16″ – 1/8″ thick. When you make the cut, do you cut on the outside of the line, the inside, or right on it?
2. Is there a reason not to use a laser rather than a chalk line?
3. You mentioned something in the blueprint about going through the entire house plan to try and avoid ending up with very thin pieces along walls. Was there a video about that? What do you do if you end up on the other side of the house needing 1/4″ or 1/2″ or even 1″ wide strips along a wall?
4. I saw you mention some blue triangular Tezoro spacers in your “securing the floor” video. Will those work instead of screws on plank in a first row or last row (instead of leaving it out until later) that has to be kept from moving temporarily?
Thanks,
Jonathan
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link to spacers – https://amzn.to/3UZSAfS
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