Project Drawings for screencast assistance.

[Joe]

Which blueprint Gene? I will re upload using a different method.

[Gene]

Sorry for the delayed response. I think I figured it out. If I refresh the webpage it seems to work. Thanks Joe. A few pics of my progress and a question on how to best go back into the doorway..

How would you best approach coming back into the doorway with the angle… Sorry the door hides the area.. Both it looks just like the other side. Where would be the best place to put the seam?

Thank you for your wisdom it’s been a great help.

Gene

• This reply was modified 2 years, 2 months ago by  Gene.

[Joe]

http://somup.com/c3nX2kZRTE

[Gene]

Thanks for the guidance. I was out for a week away from home but back at it now. I think the doorway looks pretty good. Its not perfect, but wood filler can hide the small gap.

• This reply was modified 2 years, 1 month ago by  Gene.

[Joe]

Nicely done Gene!

[Gene]

Thanks Joe, you taught me everything I know.

I’m getting ready to come out of the bedroom and into the stairs and landing area. Some parts have no wall molding, I’m guessing I will need a quarter round molding?

How would you approach the area where the stairs begin?

[Joe]

http://somup.com/c3n32NTXSl

[Gene]

Here some photos of the stairs and the landing area. I am planning on putting the laminate on the stairs as well. Understanding I believe that’s a glue down process. There is a stair nose that protrudes. I hope the pictures show that well enough for you to get an idea. Plan a is to go with an aluminum stair nose that is just nailed into place that is just nailed into place

[Joe]

http://somup.com/c3n3qTTl0k

[Gene]

Joe, thanks for the detailed explanation. The stair nose is very solid.

Regarding the part that sticks out on the end. I totally understand what you are saying about the sharp edge. Is there a better stair nose to use to cover it? I am open to suggestions on what will work best.

Along the banister rail there is no molding.. you mentioned using a colored caulk to fill the gap. I like that better than using quarter round or a transition piece.

When I get to the edge of the stairs do I still need to allow for a expansion gap or just take it to the edge and cut it off flush as the stair nose will be nailed into place thru the plank?

Thanks again for all your insight and help. Bless you brother

[Joe]

http://somup.com/c3nT2RTbnS

[Gene]

Here are some pics

[Joe]

I would do this Gene –

[Joe]

Here-

[Gene]

Thanks Joe, this looks like the way to go.

[Gene]

Hi Joe,

Getting ready to move onto the downstairs and have some questions about the best way to install the plank on the steps. I have included some pictures to assist. I think the main steps are pretty straightforward.. measure the step and the riser and cut the plank to fit and glue it down.

-Does it matter if the step goes down first or is it best to put the riser on first?

-The bottom steps does have some irregular aspects. how would you do that.

-And the top three steps are at angle, any advice on how to get these steps done is greatly appreciated.

Bless you,

Gene

[Joe]

http://somup.com/c3e2oFTgM7

[Gene]

Thanks Joe,

As of now i plan to use aluminum stair nose called Versatrim (1.5″x2.0″) unless I find something better and more applicable.

I like the idea of installing the riser on top of the tread.. that makes sense and will give it a clean look when its done. the tread are wider than 7″ (the size of my plank flooring) so i will need to use two planks per tread. the riser is under 6″ so one plank will do.

Am I correct in my thought of just gluing the plank on the tread and riser and then gluing the stairnose in place? attached is the install instructions for the product. I would be doing the overlap lock down install.. right???

Any other tips you want to share are always appreciated.

Thank you for making this project move along so smoothly.

• This reply was modified 2 years, 1 month ago by  Gene.

installation-versaedge-extra-tall.pdf 1 MB PDF - Click to view

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[Gene]

Thanks for the help on the stairs. I am nearly done. The top three on the angles proved a bit tricky, but using a cardboard template was helpful. I ended up making my own jig for the risers. Planning on getting the stair nose installed this week. The top step will be a challenge to get the seams to match up.

[Joe]

Yes, I would glue the tread and riser and use the overlap technique using that nosing. When are you going to start the steps?

[Gene]

Hi Joe,

I am getting ready to do the stairs. I will be gluing them down with some construction adhesive. Do I need to remove the attached pad on the plank or will the adhesive work with the pad attached? thanks for any instruction you can give on the best way to approach the stairs.

[Gene]

I’mI’m not not sure when I’ll get started on them. Possibly as early as this weekend. I need to decide whether I want to do the steps first or tackle the downstairs flooring before the steps

[Joe]

Gene, maybe we should talk on the phone. If you want you can call me at 218 256 8080

[Gene]

Hi Joe I get your message to call. Didn’t want to bother you on the weekend. Is there a good time to call on Monday?