Good morning, Joe. I wasn’t expecting to hear from you again until after the weekend, so thank you for the quick response!
I have made notes on the few items you covered (screws, glue gun & sticks), and will acquire those. I do have a hammer drill… purchased many years ago, but only used once, so that item is covered.
I’m somewhat of a perfectionist, though invariably I still manage to do a lot of things that are crosswise to the “measure twice, cut once” wisdom. Nevertheless, I just figured that doing undercuts at the cabinets would be a cleaner, more ‘professional’ look. But you are a professional, and if you’re saying it’s more trouble than it’s worth, or will compound the time factor, and will require many more trim & glue planks, then I am perfectly OK with sticking to using the 1/4-round, or shoe mold. And really, that doesn’t amount to a lot of length… half of those short locations are on cabinet sides which are concealed by appliances. I’ll just have to figure out how to get it to match the cabinet color, if I opt for new pieces. In one of the prior screencasts, you suggested getting rid of the black toe-kicks underneath the cabinets, then in today’s screencast, you mentioned getting a thicker version of toe-kicks, which I assume is to conceal the gap (similar to what molding would do). Did I understand that correctly?
Finally (and I know you will go into more detail about this in the blueprints, as you noted), but I don’t think I fully understand the screw and/or glue concept. I do understand that it is necessary to keep the flooring from shifting at certain junctures, but I didn’t quite understand how it is implemented. I think I have seen videos of yours where you are temporarily securing scrap pieces, but I don’t I remember seeing anything where you are securing the actual livable flooring. Anyhow, we can cover that in greater detail later.
Thank you so much!
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This reply was modified 2 years, 2 months ago by Daniel.