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Activity Feed Forums Bootcamp Corner – Weekly Calls My new project layout

  • Joe

    Administrator
    August 29, 2024 at 9:38 am
  • Joe

    Administrator
    September 6, 2024 at 8:31 am
  • Joe

    Administrator
    September 9, 2024 at 9:56 am

    share a pic of the situation.

    • cbokoski

      Member
      September 10, 2024 at 10:00 am

      Space under trim

      Also bullnose not enclosed by staircase, so it butts up against floor LVP what do you do with the little gap

  • Joe

    Administrator
    September 10, 2024 at 2:57 pm

    I would use a white silicone to fill the gaps.

    • cbokoski

      Member
      September 18, 2024 at 2:02 pm

      Staircase top board to LVP

      We were going to to use a 1/2” quarter round, bust as u can see in pics. The left side height is 3/4” the center height is almost a 1/2” and the right side height is 1/2”.

      Then when we put the 1/2” quarter round there. On the left side there is a gap either at floor or top, the center the quarter round goes above the stair board. What’s the best thing to do here. Also thought of filling with silicone. And if we die that die we tape the floor to silicone like you did the tub

  • Joe

    Administrator
    September 18, 2024 at 2:32 pm

    First off it looks amazing!!! I would use a silicone.

    • Joe

      Administrator
      September 18, 2024 at 2:32 pm

      Yes, just like I do along a tub.

    • cbokoski

      Member
      September 18, 2024 at 3:07 pm

      Thanks Joe,

      When taping the floor to do that not all boards had the exact same gap, when u toe the floor do you line up with the largest gap

  • Joe

    Administrator
    September 19, 2024 at 8:51 am
    • cbokoski

      Member
      September 19, 2024 at 11:39 am

      It the room where the bathroom has heated floors. When carpet removed saw that the heated floor is raised up with a metal edge.

      Would have liked to put new tile straight thru but don’t think we want to mess with heated floor.

      It that why it would be raised?

      Do we take the metal edging off and the put a transition

      Is the metal edge transition glued on?

    • cbokoski

      Member
      September 20, 2024 at 9:28 pm

      We are about to install Mannington AdraMax in a bathroom

      Do we have to glue every joint with that?

    • cbokoski

      Member
      September 23, 2024 at 12:46 am

      Tomorrow We are about to install Mannington AdraMax LVP

      Are we supposed to glue every joint?

  • Joe

    Administrator
    September 23, 2024 at 8:43 am

    NO. Only glue if you need to modify the locking system or you have a small piece.

    • cbokoski

      Member
      September 29, 2024 at 9:54 am

      Do you caulk the toilet?

    • cbokoski

      Member
      September 30, 2024 at 5:49 am

      We caulked the front of tub, but thinking we should have gone thicker/Wider, can we retake and go over it again?

  • Joe

    Administrator
    September 30, 2024 at 10:28 am
    • cbokoski

      Member
      October 6, 2024 at 10:18 pm

      Thanks for all your help Joe. Flooring is done except for heated floor. It seems to be concreated in. If we decided to remove it, do you know how it would be done? Do they cover the subfloor first then heat map, then concrete? Can it be removed without subfloor damage? Do we need to disconnect control before removal?

      If we put a new heated floor is there any kind you recommend? Can it put in an area and not have a transition?

      If we leave the heated floor as is, there is a metal strip on the edge, can it and should that be removed (how do we get that strip off?) to add a reducer. Pics of heated floor transition area included

      One other thing, is there anything u can put on LVP to allow one piece to side between 2 pieces easier?

  • Joe

    Administrator
    October 7, 2024 at 10:48 am
  • cbokoski

    Member
    October 9, 2024 at 8:03 am

    Hi Joe sorry for the confusion. You were right that area is the heated floor.

    And it does work. The top of the floor you thought was tile is wood or LVP, it looks like there is thinset under that. Which raised it quite a bit. My son said just take the heated floor out, he doesn’t use it. He would rather continue the new LVP there, without a transition. I was hoping that they normally used a cement board, or underlayment. Prior to installing the heated floor, so removal would not destroy the subfloor. Doesn’t sound like that is the normal practice.

    Also wondered, if we did decide to remove the current heating system and put in a new one is there a thin enough heating system where we would not Need a transition from the LVP on the subfloor TO the LVP with the heater under it?

    My question about sliding, if I can explain it correctly.

    Say I had a room done and saw a gouged piece if floor, where the short side is still exposed, could I cut that piece out and take a new piece and slide it

    Lengthwise between 2 existing pieces? Or, like how we cut the floor to have a transition between LVP and heated floor, if we decided to remove heated floor could we remove our last cut piece and slide in a new full size piece between 2 pieces lengthwise to continue into the bathroom without a transition.

    I was hoping there was something like WD40 to spray on to allow it to slide in easier. Pic of LVP currently matching up to heated floor. Is that metal strip nailed in? Or can it be removed to add a new transition


    My gut says leave the heated floor and just use a transition/reducer

  • Joe

    Administrator
    October 9, 2024 at 9:18 am

    You will open up a can of worms if you tear that out. It will be a major project and hours of work. Just want to prepare you for that. But it is very doable. There are a lot of heating systems out there that can go under the plank. Check out this link – https://mpglobalproducts.com/floor-heating-systems/

    As far as replacing a plank, watch this – https://youtu.be/3irWQGkL-xE

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