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Michael’s floor plans
Here is my floor plan. There aren’t any dimensions here as it is the one provided by the company that came out to measure the square footage to find out how much product is needed. I can do some measurements and add them here as we get moving but this is the start.
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84 Replies
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I was just looking closer at the copy of the floor plans on my computer and noticed something I didn’t notice on the printed version. The planks run east to west, where I had in mind the planks would run north to south. This would give me the house layout based on the planks running longways down the main hall and the bedrooms. The rest of the house would run the same way, with the shorter downstairs hallway laid with short planks.
I look forward to your thoughts.
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As I mentioned in my video, last night, I gave myself the homework to use the floor planner site to get a better idea of how the layout should look. Hopefully, this will work. And I just realized that I forgot one more door at the end of the hallway on the lower level. it is on the right side at the far end of the hallway.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1jlmAC0mpMtvXJds9qIW2vEUMWsTk_4Vm/view?usp=sharing
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This reply was modified 3 months, 2 weeks ago by
Michael.
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This reply was modified 3 months, 2 weeks ago by
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Next up, are the pictures of the locking system. All of our flooring will be going down on a wood subfloor, no concrete subfloor for me.
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This reply was modified 3 months, 2 weeks ago by Michael.
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This reply was modified 3 months, 2 weeks ago by
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Thanks, Joe, for the thoughts. Instead of just relying on the store samples, I purchased one box of the plank to help us decide if we liked it. So I have been able to play around with the locking system, and knowing that I was going to have to work backward for some installation due to our layout, I have also been playing with that, so I think I have a feel for it.
Of course, the biggest factor in how it lays is determined by what my wife likes. I’ve put the flooring Mohawks virtual page letting us see how it might look and have shared them with my wife to get her thoughts.
Other than that there are some things I’m going to have to work out. Like Brett in his project, I also have a banister, an almost identical one in fact. However, I am using the same laminate on the stairs so that will be fun. Here are some pictures of the banister area as that may also play into the decision on how to lay the plank. I pulled up some of the carpet to get an idea of what options. One thought was that I could use a multi-tool and undercut the banister and have the plank run under. I have pulled the carpet away as shown in the one picture and I have 3/4 inch base on the banister the full length. However, I’m now sure how well that will work at the top of the stairs.
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This reply was modified 3 months, 2 weeks ago by Michael.
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This reply was modified 3 months, 2 weeks ago by
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You are keeping me moving Joe and that is a good thing. Hopefully, you can see what you need from these pictures. The one with the new plan next to the base doesn’t have the underlayment under it, but it gives a good idea of what we have left, and it looks like that is a uniform depth the full length and with the corner banister area as well. I think the biggest thing to be determined is how it will work with the tread/flush mount pieces that we have/will have for the stairs.
I haven’t ripped it all out yet to get a for sure since I plan to start with the downstairs first. A good place to start as it is the easiest layout and a good way to get into the groove.
As for direction, my wife’s first view at the virtual images, she likes the look of the east west. And it makes sense from your thoughts of starting the master and working around with the only big area working backward being the dining and kitchen.
I agree that it does make sense to work as you said from the banister to the other wall as it gives us the plank under the banister.
Also, as far as it goes for a walk-through, next week is fine since we don’t have the materials yet anyway. Another thing, I’m currently between jobs so I have complete open availability if you would like to meet with me and record the walkthrough, but if you prefer just recording it and sending it to me I can work with that as well.
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This reply was modified 3 months, 2 weeks ago by Michael.
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This reply was modified 3 months, 2 weeks ago by
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Just checking in to see if you have all that you need from me for a walk through? I know you mentioned you would put me down for Tuesday, but I wanted to make sure you had all you needed from me.
Also, my plank cutter came in. I put it together and made some cuts. Are there some tips or tricks for getting a perfect cut? Are the pictures attached what I should expect from the cuts?
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That makes complete sense on the shorter cut pieces, and that is what is happening on two that I tried, and it was worse when I tried a cut upside down.
Here are some pics of the front view of the top step.
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Oh, and I forgot to tell you we decided on the flooring for the bathrooms and laundry room.
We ordered all of our flooring material on Friday and I’m waiting to hear back on when it will be ready to pick up. Assuming that all the product is available and can be in soon, I’ll be ready to get at it on the downstairs, which is the simpler plan to get used to it all.
mohawkflooring.com
Product Line: SolidTech Select | Style: Wanderers Loop(WLV21) | Color: G(799)
Product Line: SolidTech Select | Style: Wanderers Loop(WLV21) | Color: G(799)
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Unfortunately, they don’t have a full tread with this plank we selected. What we have ordered is the flush mount for the treads locking into our normal planks. I did watch that video you shared a few weeks ago talking about not using a flush mount on the top tread and using the overlap, at least on the top. I don’t have one of those ordered right now, and the flooring store we purchased from said that they use the flush mount on the top all the time. But, I’m open to changing things up. Here are some more pics of the stairs.
One thing is that the tread currently sticks out around 1/4″ from the riser. I would trim that flush and then install the white-painted riser up to the top so the overlap flush mount would cover it cleanly. The good thing is we have time to talk about what to do here as I work downstairs and complete those rooms first.
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This reply was modified 3 months, 1 week ago by Michael.
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This reply was modified 3 months, 1 week ago by
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Here is your walkthrough – https://somup.com/cTnFDGKNHR
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I realized as you were going through the walk-through that I never took into account on the plans the way the stairs come up and block having a clear view from the hall all the way down through the house. But if I follow the logic well enough I could do the red line for the hallway, but use the blue line to check and set up the layout for the rest of the house.
As for the downstairs, I think it would make the most sense to start in the northwest corner running to the southeast corner as it would only have me working backward in the two blue-marked areas. I would use the same logic as you demonstrated in the upstairs to make sure I account for the three doorways and how they line up keeping in mind the right transition placement to the LVP in the bathroom.
I think the plan is to have them run east to west as well in a random pattern. Does that room make the most sense to start up in the NE corner where the toilet is? Obviously, the toilet won’t be there during the floor installation.
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I understand the concept of the undercut. We will definitely be talking more as we get there.
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No worries about missing that. I know have thrown multiple replies in here and you have done remarkably well in keeping up with my chaotic nature. From the documentation, it looks like the tongue and grooves are the same as the Revwood, at least that is what their installation instructions lead me to believe.
Now that you say the part about working from the door first, that makes complete sense and reminds me of the fact that I wished I had done that with I laid some LVP in my father in laws bathroom a couple of years ago.
I just talked it through with my wife and she agrees that the LVP will be run east to west in the downstairs bathroom, laundry room, and the bathroom at the end of the hall. The master bathroom with run north to south. All three have full vanity cabinets so I don’t have to worry about working around or under any sinks/pedestals just up to the cabinets like I will have to in the kitchen. For all those rooms I am removing the current sheet laminate and taking it down to the subfloor and I figure I’m going to have to buy some underlayment to build it up to the same level as the Revwood. I have the transition coming in my order for each of those as well.
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Ok. I will get this to you tomorrow.
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No rush if you have other things to get done. I’m waiting for the material to be ready to pick up, and with the snow storm that is supposed to come in tonight and tomorrow, (TN doesn’t do well with snow) I doubt it will make it here this week.
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Ok, then I might wait until Friday if thats ok.
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Not a problem.
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