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MarkDGaal Basement Layout/BluePrint
- I’ve added detailed measurements to the prior floorplan in teal (1st image)
- Plank direction is north/south or the purple double arrow
- Here is a clean version of the floorplan if you want to use that to start from that (2nd Image)
- My plank is 8.7” Lifeproof 22mill Sterling Oak
- The largest transition is this 112” of this from the tile in the red box (3rd image)
- This is the difference in heights between the concrete slab and tile in the redbox (4th image)
- I’ve bought 2qty of this product to go between the tile and the plank along the 112”. I plan to CUT OFF the part of the profile that normally goes under the tile then butt-joint 3 pieces (with the butt joints closer to edges of the opening and a full length 96” long piece in the middle of the transition) AND use PL MAX to adhear it to the concrete and existing transition. THEN, slide the plank under the open ended side of the profile. Please advise what you think about this approach.
- The rest of the transitions are a bit easier for next to the bathroom I plan to just cut off the Groove on my plank and butt it right next to this piece of travertine (5th image)
- For the other side of the bathroom where it will be the short edge of the plank I plan to do the same against this piece of travertine (6th image)
- For the room that the concrete is covered with epoxy I bought this product and plan to put the part that would normally go under tile under my plank and then face the bullnose into the epoxy room
- The final transition that I haven’t thought a lot about are these double doors, If there’s some way I can use the remainder of the product from #10 I think that could look nice (7th image)
- Here’s a general video of the space: https://share.icloud.com/photos/0f3nMm6aXnnBNfu58Msqi3pEA
- General Advice: this is going to stay a playroom and the two primary unknowns for me are how “soft” the life-proof floor will feel sitting on concrete and if I should ignore the warranty and install something like quiet walk under it to cut down on noise and make it more pleasing to walk on…. or just go with lots of area rugs and wood/noise panels on the walls so that the sound doesn’t travel up the staircase.
I tried to be as detailed as I could think of, anything else you need to know just give me a call or shoot me an email. I’m out of town next week so if you need to take 5-7 days to do this I’m not opposed.
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11 Replies
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Hey Mark, I am out of the office for a few hours and I will get to this as soon as I get back.
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Thank you Joe! I’m glad I sprung for this because I was actually thinking to start a single plank off of the double-door wall, drop a straight row, tapcon anchor into the concrete, build off of that TOWARD the tile / “entrance” to the space and finally use a cheater board against the tile and opposite wall. So starting on the tile side is not what I was thinking.
<font color=”rgba(0, 0, 0, 0)” face=”inherit”>Responding to your </font>questions:
-My plank is still shipping but I have this sample from HD that is 6 mils and I would think is the same. Pictures of the T&G below
-My intent is to remove all the baseboards and lower them as opposed using square bar/quarter round. All of my provided measurements subtract the baseboards.
-I’ve clarified the measurements you’ve requested in the attached image of the bedroom. Please note the .75″ difference in the closet.
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This reply was modified 1 month, 1 week ago by Mark.
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This reply was modified 1 month, 1 week ago by
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EDIT: Please also note the 14″ vs 10″ difference on each side of this door jam.
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This reply was modified 1 month, 1 week ago by Mark.
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This reply was modified 1 month, 1 week ago by
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Thanks
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Here is your blueprint – https://somup.com/c0n0beyjC3
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Thanks Joe, getting back from vacation today and will take a look when I get home.
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Hi Joe, I’ve watched the video in full, but it’s not something I’m gonna have questions on until I get rolling. Before I do i wanted to follow up regarding underlayment/pad.
I pulled up the carpet and removed all the tack-strips and if I go looking for concrete flatness issues I’m gonna find A LOT. For example here’s a 1/2″ drop off toward a wall.
And here’s a video of a pretty sizable hump in the bedroom. https://share.icloud.com/photos/0a9mNQB3mWzr0Fas5SkhqRU0g
If I go looking I’m going to find a TON of these issues. My question is… do I HAVE to correct these if I’m using the floor&decor sold pad product you linked (or even a slightly thicker one) or will the pad compensate for the drunk concrete levelers.
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Thanks Joe, I’m glad I asked I was only concerned about east and west flatness and not north and south, thinking that the long joint was more critical. Thanks for the clarification!
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Hi Joe quick project update.
