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LVP Project
Good afternoon, Joe,
Our home recently had a water leak which meant I had to take up all of the LVP flooring I had put down less than 1 year ago. I had some things I wish I would have done better after my last install, and luckily, I found your channel. We went with Mannington Adura Max this time around which seems to have good specs based on the reading and shopping I did. I have done the floor plan drawing as shown in your how to video. Our last flooring would have been east and west on the floor plan I made, but I am thinking that I like the idea of running it N and S when I do this install. Our front door is the door shown in the living room so I think it would look nice to open the door and see the full-length planks. What are your thoughts? I’ll also upload some pics of our home so you can see how everything is laid out. Sorry for the mess; the reconstruction is still ongoing.
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17 Replies
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I think I will start in the Northwest corner of the living room and run the plank north and south. It may be a bit more challenging to work backwards in a smaller area such as the laundry room, but as you can see by the pictures, I am crammed for space. I think for my sanity I would like to get some longer runs done without working backwards so that I can see some progress. I’d love to hear your rundown for my home.
Also, I was wondering your recommendation in the small area between the outside door and the basement steps. It’s the area that goes out of the laundry room and into the kitchen. It is a short, narrow space and won’t allow for full length planks there. Should I try to stagger those to where you see a short end joint or two in that area or will it look ok with just long joints in that space and no butt joints? Sorry if that is confusing to try and visualize; I can try to clarify more if that doesn’t make sense.
Finally, as you can probably see in some of the pics, I have plywood underlayment down in some areas. When I put the LVP in last year, the kitchen had laminate planks over old sheet vinyl or laminate that was on top of 1/4in plywood underlayment. The living room had carpet, but we took out a dividing wall between the living room and kitchen. The laminate and underlayment were glued to the subfloor, so rather than pull all of that up I just used plywood underlayment from Menards to match the height of the living room floor to the kitchen floor. After seeing some of your content, I now see that you don’t like Luan at all. The product that i bought says it’s poplar core with birch face, but some people refer to that as luan plywood. Is that something you think is ok or is that what you are talking about when you use the term luan? When the restoration company took up the old flooring, the underlayment that wasn’t damaged got left. I bought more of that underlayment plywood before I saw your recs against luan. Is what I bought something you think is bad enough that I should eat the $400 or so worth that I bought and pull up what is currently down and attach the plank straight to the subfloor? That will be a slower process as tearing it up takes me longer than stapling new down, but I want this floor to last. Please advise.
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Good morning,
Is is ok to apply Henry 549 featherfinish to the top of that plywood underlayment that I mentioned? I have a joist in the middle of my house that sits slightly higher than the two beside it so there is a small hump through the kitchen. If I place the middle of my 6ft level on the hump and push down on one end of the level, the opposite end of the level winds up being more than 1/4 inch above the floor.
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Yes, you can use that.
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Joe, I’m uploading a video showing some unevenness in my floor. Can you explain what I should do? I have watched your videos on subfloor prep but want to make sure I am doing the right thing. As you can see in the video, there is a slight hump. Should I just build the side closest to the cabinets up a bit to make a small slope or would you recommend trying to feather out from the hump? I don’t want to mess this up and end up with a big hump in my floor, so I’m hoping you can provide me with guidance on this issue. I really want to avoid creating unevenness in the floor that leads to plank separation over time.
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I can’t get the video to upload. Is that something I can email to you or is there a way I can get it posted here? I’ve tried to compress the file but it still says it is too big.
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send it to my email using google drive or something similar. Floormechanics@gmail.com
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Do you find that the acclimation period is important for the flooring? My flooring came in today and I’d like to get started laying it as soon as I can’t, but the installation instructions recommend a 48 hour period to acclimate. What are your recommendations?
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I only am concerned about that when it is wood or laminate and if it is in the winter months.
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Are these too big to put on top of the flooring? I had them on my last lvp but don’t want to run into issues over time if you think it’s not a good idea.
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You can put those on top of the plank.
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Good morning Joe,
Can you explain how I can end my plank at carpet without a transition? I found a video in the all videos section of the site, but it seems to not be a working link. My plank runs parallel to the door so the long end is what meets the carpet if that matters at all. I have some transition pieces so I can use them if need be, but I thought maybe the no transition look could be cleaner and wanted to try that out first.
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For some reason that video doesn’t work for me at all. I’ve tried it on my phone and computer. I hit play but the video won’t open or load at all. I checked your YouTube channel for the video but didn’t see it. Do you have it there where you could link it to me?
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