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Carlos’ first LVP project – upper floor
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Hi Joe,
Thanks for your messages. I plan on starting my project this week. In your video, you showed to start the first row away from the way and use scrap. That “gap”, once I remove the scrap pieces at the end, will have I will have to back lay, is that right? Is there a video that shows how to do it?
By the way, before I start, can I trim ALL my door jambs? I was going to use a piece of flooring and pad as a guide.
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Watch this at 29:22 – https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UII0yYikEe8
Yes, you can trim out your door jambs before plank. Although, the install would be very easy before the jambs are trimmed.
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Hey Joe, I will start laying my planks this weekend.
The pad I’m using is from Roberts and the instructions say it best to leave extra 2″ all around the perimeter of the room that would go up and behind the baseboards. Do you think that’s necessary? I was planning on installing the pad flush to the walls.
Please also see attached pictures of the transitions between first room and bathroom. As I said before, I will leave the bathroom as is. There is a stone transition that I actually quite like it, but not sure if I’ll be able to use it after the LVP is installed. There’s currently an 1-1/8″ difference in height right now. I showed pics of two doors, one still has the stone transition and the other door, it has come off.
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Hi Joe,
Started today. I still have a few questions, I made some videos, tried to post here but files were too big. I shared them with you by Google Drive. Let me know if you could see them. Thanks.
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Hey Joe, thanks for replying and for answering my questions. I was able to make more progress yesterday. Right now, I am not being very productive because it’s been a learning curve for me. I guess I’ll work a little faster as I advance. Some things a learned so far:
01. The locking system is VERY FRAGILE. I accidentally damaged a couple of grooves yesterday as I was tapping the planks.
02. It takes a few taps to put the planks really close together. I notice sometimes there’s an almost invisible gap, probably 1/32 or 1/64 that will close if I tap further.
03. In reference to #2, when I measured my 10-plank width, I did not tap with the tapping block, so I guess my 10-plank might be off by 1/8″, which means by the end of the other side of the house I might be off by around 1/2″. Fingers crossed.
04. I am putting the pad as I go and it really works better this was as you suggested.
05. I used the cheater boad to cut around and into the closet and it worked really well.
Thanks Joe
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Hey Joe, I’m ready to finish the first room and go into the hallway. One question though: do I need these joints on both sides of the door jamb or can I put a whole plank? Please see attached image, I marked with the red arrows.
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Hey Joe, just wanted to give you an update. Everything is going great so far. I reloaded the image of my floorplan. The areas in RED are the ones I already finished. The ones in green I will have to go back and lay the planks backwards.
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In your videos, you talk a lot about the cheater board, but one tool that I found as awesome as the cheater board are the scrap pieces screwed into the subfloor. They’re great! They give me the confidence that I can tap the planks without them moving. I finished the 2nd room today and the last plank fit perfectly. Here are some images.
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Joe, I am using LifeProof LVP form Home Depot and I realized they don’t make the matching stair nose. There’s a vendor that sells a custom made one that is too expensive:
https://www.luxuryvinyltreads.com/products/clermontelm
Any ideas?
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Yes, I would check Versatrim. They have everything and are much more reasonable. You need an overlapping stair nose.
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