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Blueprint Request Dan
Hello Joe!
Dan here, we have a 1950s Ranch Style home where we ripped out the green carpet and would like to replace the asbestos tiles underneath with Avant XPE Rigid Core LVP by Eternity Flooring. Using your tutorials, I measured out the centerline of our hallway and am using that as the foundation for our layout. According to plans, everything should fall into place nicely. Now we just need to know where to start our first row and would like your advice for our specific floorplan. Also, is there anything we should look out for?
Additional info because I feel that I left out some other details:
Hallway/Dining room closets:
We will be adding LVP to the entire house except the bedrooms and their respective closets. There is a sliding closet opening in the hallway that leads to the bedroom in addition to a similar opening in the dining room. I have ripped out the existing overhang rail closets and will be replacing with the more modern closets that have rails on the floor. I would assume I would just go ahead and install the LVP first before installing the railing over it correct?Kitchen cabinets:
Our kitchen cabinets are not in yet and the installers are waiting for our signal. It’s just an empty room at the moment. Can we go ahead and tell them to start installing cabinets? I was told to ask them to “leave the toekick panels out”. When it comes time to lay the flooring, the flooring would go a little under the cabinets then be covered with the toe kick. Not sure how this will all work with the parts that there is no toekick (dividers for fridge, etc) But my concern is this, with our brand new cabinets in, I’d prefer not to cut the base cabinets away with a multitool in order to slide the flooring underneath. Is this unavavoidable? I was also told not to install the flooring before the cabinets. I’d also like to avoid using a shoemold. So I guess my question is this.. is there a way to install the flooring after the cabinets in a way that we do not have to undercut the cabinets and not have to use a shoemold to have the appearance of the flooring go under the cabinets? In my head I’m thinking no and that you’d have to use some type of shoemolding or undercut.Thank you very much Joe!
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This discussion was modified 3 months, 3 weeks ago by
dtm880.
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This discussion was modified 3 months, 3 weeks ago by
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13 Replies
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Hi Joe, first of all, thank you for your reply. It was super helpful.
To answer your questions, the 13th will be fine! The cabinets are going to be installed this Thursday. And yes, the new cabinets will be extending out past the existing wall as a peninsula…kind of like a breakfast nook.
Right now we are at the stage of leveling the subfloor. Not to disparage anyone.. but our flooring guy (who we since fired) laid a thick mound of quikcrete then came back for a second visit with an angle grinder to flatten them out. When he came back to grind it, I pointed out a lot of other areas he missed. So then he piled more quikcrete on those areas which is right after I fired him. He was planning on installing the plank the next visit and that didn’t sit well with me. I believe if I were to continue with him, he would have just started at a corner of the house and let the planks land where they may. So after watching your videos my wife and I gained the confidence to tackle this ourselves. Unfortunately, I had the unfortunate task of leveling the mounds of concrete our flooring guy did before he left. After this is done, I plan on using feather finish and a straight edge to smooth out the valleys. Another question, I noticed some valleys where the cabinets are going to be installed. Do I bother with leveling them before the kitchen guys come this Thursday or will they just use shims and I can focus on leveling other areas of the kitchen, like the center where the cabinets will not be placed. I can add more pictures if you’d like.
Thanks again Joe!
Sincerely,
Dan
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You would be ok to leave the areas under the cabinets and concentrate your efforts elsewhere
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Hi Joe, so the cabinets were installed yesterday with the toe kicks left out. I’d estimate they’ll return in about a week or two so my wife will be preparing to start shortly. I’ll need to finish with the feather finish in other areas of the house, buy quiet walk underlayment, etc.
If you’ll notice there is a change to my original drawing I sent you. There is now a peninsula that juts out instead of going straight along the wall. I know you suggested earlier that we could start near the front window near the mantle or also mentioned we could start near the back wall so we wouldn’t have to really work backwards. I know you were basing off my original drawings where the counters were both running in parallel, but what do you think of us still starting at the back wall? Yes, we’d have to do some more working backwards now vs before because of the way the counter comes out but I think this would still be preferred because 1) the flooring would be there when the kitchen guys come back when they install the appliances (range, dishwasher, fridge) and 2) they can also install the toekicks/shoe mold while they are there.
I’ve added two quick pictures of what our kitchen looks like as of last night.
Thank you Joe
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Yes, I would still start in the same area. I have you down to do that Blueprint tomorrow.
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Here is your blueprint – https://somup.com/c3lIbAw4RT
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Hi Joe! Really appreciate you sending the blueprint. I am now able to start after having some delays this week but as I am leveling the floor I am realizing there’s A LOT of floor that needs to be leveled. Like, A LOT. Is there a cheaper alternative than using 549? I used 2 bags for the kitchen and it’s still not level. I hope I’m doing something wrong because I’m going to be burning through boxes and boxes of this stuff at this rate. Here’s an example of how low the dips are..
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I have to admit, I’m starting to feel the stress and I’m trying to keep positive. Hope you have some miracle product you can recommend
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Sorry Dan, here is the correct link – https://somup.com/c3lqolwCkO
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Hi Joe, so my wife have been busy the past few days screeding thinset all over the house. We’re at the point now that we’re ready to start snapping the main line and other reference lines per your blueprint. Question we are having now is underpayment. I bought the black quietwalk. How do we handle snapping the lines only to cover it with pad? If we snap on the pad I’d think it’s compromised because the pad would shift when we walk on it. Surely we can’t be the only ones to face this issue?
Also, since we have concrete slab (actually asbestos tile, now with thinset over the majority of it) we will be securing the plank with the glue method using the tools you recommended. Obviously we cannot glue directly to the pad. How do we approach this?
Thank you Joe
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Hello Joe! Thank you for your quick reply! Unfortunately it looks like the upload failed
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sorry try it again
