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Blueprint Request and other questions
Thanks Joe for creating this platform. Your videos are well done and helpful. On the attached file (yellow highlighted areas won’t receive laminate), I’m thinking of starting where I’ve drawn the first row of tiles in red and would continue in that orientation throughout because the narrow part of my hallway is short. Let me know if this is the best place to start and if this layout works esthetically. I have no trim(baseboard, casing, etc), appliances or furniture as I’m finishing a basement. This installation will be on concrete. Additional install info on attached file.
I didn’t notice any videos on drop and lock systems. Any differences in the install instructions? Do I still use the beater block?
Stair instructions for my bullnose and drop and lock system with bull nose pieces please (I didn’t see any stair videos)?
I have an under counter fridge. Should I install this all the way under the fridge (not installed yet) or just to the front as you show installing to the dishwasher in one of your videos?
For my office and bedroom sliding door guides, can I epoxy these to the floor and install the laminate around them? These floor guides keep the doors tracking straight through a slot in the bottom of the door.
I purchased the needed tools through your website links but didn’t purchase the adhesive. I’m assuming I’ll need this for the stairs. If so, can you give me an estimate of how many tubes I should purchase? Is these adhesive needed or recommended elsewhere?
In a ten foot run, how much can you alter a rows positioning at the end without jeopardizing the connections and stability of the floor? (In one of your videos you show moving the tile to be parallel to a line in the bathroom). This info will help me plan my positioning because I’m assuming my walls aren’t a perfect 90 degrees.
Sorry for all the questions, but I noted questions as I went through your videos. Hopefully this will save us both time.
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This discussion was modified 1 year, 2 months ago by
jdcart4321. Reason: add additional files because additional pages of original weren't showing
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This discussion was modified 1 year, 2 months ago by
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3 Replies
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Thanks, Joe, for the quick response.
Yes, I’ll start where you recommend, in the closet. I may later put a built in closet organizer(drawers, cubby holes for clothes, books etc) Do you see any problem having this melamine structure resting on the laminate or should I leave the concrete bare and finish off with laminate once I get the closet organizer installed?
Sorry for the construction clutter in the photos as I’ve been using these areas to assemble and paint cabinets. The first area photo is looking into the office from the stair landing. The second is looking into the TV room from the hallway.
Pics of bullnose attached. There is a 1 mm loose plastic strip on the bottom side of the bullnose. Unfortunately no instructions were included. I’ve already trimmed the stair bullnose from the treads per your video.
On the stairs, can I run the laminate to the wall without an expansion gap since these are short pieces? Because the stairway is narrow, I don’t want to add trim. Landing midway on stairs would have baseboard.
If I start in the office closet, the tongue would go to the wall and the groove towards the open area? Just want to be certain I understand working away from the groove.
The bypass door tracking hardware pictures shows two options I have. The hardware on the left in the picture guides the door as the door slides between the two. The other option that I prefer (on right of picture) is a post that rides in a 5/16” slot in the bottom of the door. The easiest install of this option would be to rough up the bottom of the guide and floor and epoxy these to the floor. I include the provided installation screw in the picture, but this is for wood.
Thanks for your guidance.
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Here is your blueprint – https://somup.com/c01qoBaP6m
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