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Blueprint Request
Hi Joe,
I will be installing Flooret Signature (big boards) in the main living area of my home (non yellow areas). I have tackled a bedroom with a Shaw product I wouldn’t use again and 2 other bedrooms with Flooret Base which was great to work with.
My main concerns with this install are flowing the flooring around the central bar area and making sure it comes together on the other side. This will also be my first time tackling stairs…I purchased matched nosings from Flooret…however I’m not sure how to tackle the first stair at the top of the landing (especially if the flooring ends up running perpendicular to the first step.
Looking forward to your thoughts-
John
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19 Replies
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FYI smartdraw has changed their system so that you can’t export in any fashion unless you pay. They have also done away with monthly subscriptions so you have to pay for an entire year which is like $120…which they kindly don’t mention until you are done with your drawing.
Might want to look into floorplanner.com. They have a similar looking setup with a free forever basic plan and a paid plan that is available for a few bucks a month still.
J
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Hi Joe,
Thanks for jumping right on this! I’ve watched a bunch of your YouTube content over the last year or two and I like what you have going on and how you go about things in general.
Pretty excited about getting it done! I’m doing prep and demo now.
The house has a daylight basement so this is the upstairs area. It has t&g plywood subflooring with 1/2 chipboard over that. They even mudded in the gaps so I have a pretty good starting point.
The area between the dining and living room is an opening with pocket doors.
The stairs are going down in the picture. I found the overlap stair nose you mentioned and ordered it. I have already purchased the other style to do the stair treads. Haven’t decided if I’m going to do lvp or just white board for the risers yet. The stairs don’t have any kind of trim on them so I’ll have to come up with something there too…I’ve seen some done with what looks like a stringer cut in reverse. If you have any ideas for that I’m all ears.
The yellow areas are done with different plank and tile so I will be doing transitions there. Not worried about trying to line anything up with them.
John
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I like that North/South orientation. If I can figure out how to hit center in that hallway and transfer it over for starting a full or partial plank on the “East” wall that would look great. Here are some pics that cover most of the views-
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here is your blueprint – https://somup.com/c01jbDa5Vw
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Here is a link to the Flooret video – https://www.sothatshowyoudothat.com/flooret-modin/
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Hey Joe,
Thanks for the blueprint…hoping to get going on it next week.
Ran into something on demo I wanted to get your thoughts on. Turns out my kitchen flooring was glued in. It’s some kind of an oak laminate system I haven’t encountered before. The glue is holding firm so the flooring wants to come up in little chunks and there is still a fair amount of glue residue left behind.
Debating if I should battle with breaking it all out and trying to scrape it down or if I should just bust out the saw and cut through the chipboard under it to take it out in bigger chunks. Chipboard appears to be screwed down every foot or so (at least it isn’t stapled…been there done that). I’m guessing I would have to replace maybe 3 sheets worth of chipboard if I went that route.
John
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Is this a 2 layer subfloor? If so, that could be the best route to go. There is no easy way to tear out glued wood plank, but it would be easier doing what you described.
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Hi Joe,
It’s been a while. Got busy on a few other projects and now I’m getting this flooring tackled. I’m on plan and looking good to hit the hallway straight and dead center. I’m through the living room and dining room and flowing around the divided “island”.
I’m about to drop the first board on the top of the stairwell and I’m trying to figure out how the reveal on these stair treads is going to work. I’ve got the kind that glues over the flooring for the top stair and then the kind that lock in with the flooring for the steps. Both of them look like they won’t cover the height of the tread though. Just curious how to finish that off.
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So basically I want to build out the verticals until they are flush with the stair treads. Then I cut my riser material so that the bottom edge of that nosing can rest on it and get some support.
Sounds doable and much better than trying to cut all the treads back.
I’m still debating on running the risers out of LVP or if I should do some kind of a white painted wood to brighten things up a bit. Have you experimented with that?
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Yes, I prefer to use a painted riser for a nicer look.
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Hi Joe,
I’m laying out what will be the last row of the hallway here so I can line it all out with my cheater board. As you can see I’m working my way into a corner with a couple of doors about 30″ apart.
Just wondering if you had any advice on intentionally placing the joints to make fitting it up around all the obstacles easier.
Once I’m through here the rest of it should be smooth sailing. The layout plan worked like a charm and it’s looking great!
John
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Hi Joe,
Got those tricky pieces in the hallway all glued in…it was about as much fun as you said it would be 😉
Can’t believe how much heavier duty these Flooret boards are compared to the other stuff I have worked with. Bit more of a pain in areas like this because they just aren’t easily muscled around. Hopefully they will be super durable.
The rest of the upstairs should be fairly straight forward…hope to get it done tomorrow.
For the transitions I saw you like the Masterweld 948…haven’t found it locally. Is it worth paying the freight to have it shipped in or would another poly adhesive like Loctite PL3x or PL8x suffice? I’ve got the big hot glue gun setup so I should be able to put them in via your method.
I am thinking ahead to the stairs next. What adhesive would you recommend for gluing the lvp treads and nosings? Zigzag glue pattern or trowel? If you have a stairs video that covers this I apologize…I didn’t see it. I saw another video where a guy was dutifully peeling all of the backing foam off of all of the planks for the stairs.
John
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Hi Joe,
We were discussing different adhesive options for the stair treads. You found me a couple of suitable options I could order from big box but they didn’t have your go to.
Looks like tools4flooring currently has free shipping and I need to order a few things from them anyhow. What is your favorite one that they have? I’ve got like 16 stairs so I think you were saying I should get like 4 gallons?
Thanks,
John
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