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Blueprint Request
Hi, I am installing Vinyl Plank flooring in a daylight basement. I created a drawing in Smartdraw, however I can’t export or print the drawing without paying for a subscription. Assuming you have purchased Smartdraw, you can access my drawing in read-only mode at the link below. If you need to edit for any reason, I can send you another link that will allow editing.
I also saved a jpeg I created using Snipping Tool, but it is not great resolution.
Product purchased: LifeProof Rigid Core Vinyl Plank, 8mm gauge, 8.66″W x 59.45″L (220mm x 1570mm). Drop lock style tongue & groove.
Room details: Installing LVP in main room, closet, and bathroom. Floor is poured concrete throughout. I have already removed previous glued tile flooring, baseboards, and cabinet trim.
Help Needed:
1. Floor is not on plane. I checked the floor with a 6-foot level and marked all the low spots. Out of 830 square feet, about 220 square feet are in dips from 1/8″ to 1/2″. The entire floor slopes about 1-1/4″ over 20 feet. I got quotes for floor leveling using a gypsum-based product but this service is expensive ($5,000-$8,000) and would delay my project due to the contractor’s backlog. So I’m planning to accept the small slope of the floor and just fill the low spots using Henry 547 patch & level. I purchased six 25-lb bags.
2. The space is irregular and it’s not obvious to me where to start or how to avoid pitfalls around doorways, shower, cabinets, sliding glass doors, fireplace, etc. Your videos are helpful but I would welcome advice. There is also a cabinet partition for a mini fridge not shown on the drawing – I’d like to put the flooring underneath it but it’s also in a low spot.
https://cloud.smartdraw.com/share.aspx/?pubDocShare=0A51D48BC18739F0CA58161A1BC93F288F2
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26 Replies
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Marc, can you send that jpeg you spoke of. I do not have an account with smart draw.
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Here it is. Since it’s a snip it’s not as good quality as what is on SmartDraw
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Is this it?
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That’s it!
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Joe, I’m attaching a video (low quality due to size restrictions) to try to answer all your questions and also close ups of the locking system for the planks. The top of the floor diagram is North. I agree it might be easier to go West to East but I think it might look better going South to North, given how people and light move through the room. I’ll go with the approach you recommend – I don’t want this to be harder than it already is!
If I can find Ardex GPS I’ll return the Henry 547. I’m in the Portland, OR area so if you can locate a retailer for Ardex that would be great. If that is a challenge, I’ll open up one bag of the Henry, try it and see if I can work with it.
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Hi Joe,
I found a local tile store that will sell me Ardex GPS. Thanks for the recommendations on filling the low spots. There aren’t too many right next to walls but I like your idea of using a guide for screeding.
I think I’d like to go North-South for plank direction. That being said, as you work thru the blueprint if you think that’s a mistake I can easily go E-W. I’ve made a couple tweaks to the drawing and am attaching. The measurements in the drawing are quite accurate. I added measurements for the bay window area and the sliding glass doors. The SW wall is inset 7″ as shown (due to framing and drywall built in front of concrete slab). Other walls line up but no wall is exactly straight!
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Thanks Marc! I will have this by tomorrow. I am running behind this morning with a plumbing issue and I will not be able to get to this before my daughters surgery.
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No worries, I’ve got a lot of floor patching to do before laying plank. Good luck and best wishes for your daughter’s speedy recovery!
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Here is your blueprint – https://somup.com/c3iuoju4Lc
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Thanks. After seeing the video, it’s pretty clear to me that going South – North as shown is going to result in a lot of narrow pieces and extra work due to the room geometry. I was worried about having butt ends at the fireplace, but if I undercut the mortar as you suggest I should be able to deal with that just fine. I’ve also got grey colored silicone caulk that will match pretty closely.
So I think I want to go West – East. Sorry for the flip-flop!
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BTW, the drawing is accurate within 1/2″ and my plank dimensions are 8.66″W x 59.45″L. Going S-N I will have to deal with a 3″ strip in front of the two sliding glass doors that is not shown on the drawing.
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here is the fireplace video – https://youtu.be/9bt6qUiXBF8
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Probably will look much better that way. Are you asking for another blueprint with the other direction?
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Yes, if it’s not too much trouble. Getting the floor straight in my spare time is proving to be a major undertaking, but I’ll be ready to lay plank this weekend
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Here is the blueprint for the other direction – https://somup.com/c3jeowupPr
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Hi Joe,
I calculated my layout considering several options for starting plank position. The only one that had planks ending in doorways and avoided narrow (<3 in) strips at all other walls and cabinets was to start a plank on the long North wall. I laid out two rows and anchored them. I figured I could work backwards in the nook, and that doesn’t seem difficult. My problem is that I assumed I could also work backwards and attach 3″ wide planks in front of the sliding glass doors (see picture). This might prove difficult, given that I want the planks to go slightly under the door molding.
Should I carry on and attempt to handle the sliding doors at the end, OR stop where I am, remove the anchors, slide everything out, attach the narrow planks for the sliding doors, then slide everything back to the wall, re-anchor and carry on?
Thanks!
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Carry on! That will not be as difficult as you expect. I can share some guidance with you on that if you need.
