Blueprint Request

[Joe]

Here is a video that shows how to get around cabinets –

https://youtu.be/PM-LA-KqVzk

[Tory]

Hi Joe,

I think the thing that raises my eyebrows a bit is exactly where to secure the (not-eat-in) kitchen floor. My original blueprint shows a “complete unobstructed line” that runs the length of the entire wall, whereas actually since there are cabinets there should it be secured to the concrete between the “doorway” of the eat-in kitchen and the not eat-in kitchen? Or should I come inside the doorway and secure it between the length of the inside corners of the North and South cabinets?

[Joe]

Share more pics of inside the kitchen

[Tory]

[Joe]

http://somup.com/crlY2U0N0t

[Tory]

Thank you

[Tory]

Good morning Joe,

As you likely recall, my blueprint was based off of not having to wrap around the door insides within the 3 kitchen doorways. I’m currently looking at installing the last row in the living room. I’ve removed the baby threshold and it looks like I have a total gap of 2 3/8 inches, where my multifunction RevoFit 2IN1 reducer/t-mold transition would also lie, between the face edge of the builder installed hardwood and the face edge of my Costco vinyl plank. With a 1/4 expansion gap for my vinyl plank, how much of a gap should I have for the builder installed hardwood before cutting my last row for my vinyl plank? (I’m not sure that my builder had any gap previously from looking at the glue lies on the hardwood, but that transition was between hardwood and carpet formerly.)

Secondly, I was thinking of using a combination of MasterWeld 948 and GE Advanced Silicone 100% Waterproof to glue down the aforementioned transition and subsequently putting weights down on it. The transition strips are short for that area, so the Costco/Mohawk Customer Support recommended that I cut to fit an additional strip onto a full length strength as tight as I can get it, and then using a (store matched) filler between the two to close the gap. Will these work?

[Joe]

http://somup.com/c3Vf2ZZhmp

[Tory]

I’m sorry that I botched the second question. I’m not home to perform the exact measurement on the length of the old/new transition strip that is needed. But, as pictured, the Costco transition strip only comes in one length and that length is too short to cover the entire length of the transition that is actually needed. When I called Costco/Mohawk Customer Support, they recommended that I cut to fit an additional strip onto the pictured full length strip as tight as I can get it, and then using a “store matched color filler” between the two to close the gap. I think it would be around 1 transition strip plus around half of an additional transition strip. Will these work? Would you recommend that I create a custom single transition strip from wood that is “color matched”, rather than using the shorter combined manufacturer transition strips? Or would you recommended something else?

[Joe]

No, I would use the 2 transition strips and fill any gap between the 2 strips.

[Joe]

If they have a matching wood filler to fill that gap, I would use that. Unless you can find something at Home Depot that will match.

[Tory]

left to right in the attached picture:

1) combined unwrapped manufacturer (whole) transition piece

2) track only

3) top transition piece

I watched your video here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hd1WMC1CbhI&list=PLWX4yeQAKr0qTjRTZOK6p6xzW2Cp6EPze&index=6

where the recommendation was to throw away the track (to avoid any future crunching).

In your previous video here, you mentioned that I should include the leg in addition to the gaps for the laminate and vinyl plank. But from my attached picture, especially if I did not use the track (to avoid future crunching), what do you recommend in this specific situation as far as setting the gap(s) appropriately and especially having a top transition piece that holds to the glue without the track?

• This reply was modified 2 years, 8 months ago by  Tory.

[Joe]

http://somup.com/c3VX23Z2jB

[Tory]

Hi Joe,

Starting 33:59 into my blueprint, that was grounded on not having to wrap around the 2 kitchen doorways, you recommended a total of 3 screws to secure my living room concrete floor: 2 near the West edges and 1 on the north wall edge before my full row? It appears that no screws were recommended around my T-molding between my original builder installed hardwood and my recently installed LVP. Correct?

If so, for the 2 screws on my west living room wall, it looks as if I may not necessarily need the tiniest of slivers to close the drywall gap. However assuming the aforementioned is correct, my screw would not fit as nicely as your third and last video on securing the floor, especially since I don’t think there’s an easy way to ensure that the quarter round would eventually cover their holes? In the attached pics, my quarter round is dry fit only. Do you advise securing the floor despite not having quarter round to later conceal them and totally rely on wood filler instead? I take it that it isn’t advisable to screw into the tongue edge itself? Or is something else recommended?

• This reply was modified 2 years, 6 months ago by  Tory.

[Joe]

Tory, can you share the link to the blueprint with me? Just copy and paste in this thread, thank you!