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Blueprint Request
Hello,
I am looking to install vinyl plank flooring throughout my house. Due to handicaps, I intend to pay someone to level and repair the concrete slab. I want to install the floor myself and have chosen Home Depot LIfeproof (model I966103L). Here is the image of the tile which shows the locking mechanism on the tile. (https://images.thdstatic.com/productImages/47193ae9-48c5-4b6b-a5d0-497cd5b52b1d/svn/burnt-oak-lifeproof-vinyl-plank-flooring-i966103l-77_145.jpg)
I am attaching a floorplan that I prepared using SketchBoard. The small squares in the layout are ~5 Sq Ft and the larger squares are 10 Sq. Ft. I want to avoid transitions or quarter round as much as possible but can install them where they make sense. The main feature of the house are the views from the front and back living rooms and so I would like the floor layout to emphasize that. I do want to avoid a bowling alley effect. For communication purposes, consider the front door as being on the North side of the house.
Thank you for all the tips so far. I have avoided purchasing pretty but inferior floors as a result. And I have learned enough to feel confident that I can install these once the floors are level.
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15 Replies
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Looking at the blueprint, I see the gridlines are missing.
Below are some of the approximate measurements for the rooms. Let me know if you need the other rooms.
Living 21 x 12
Kitchen/Nook 21 x10
Family 22 X 14
Foyer 7 X 20
Hall-1 6 x 3.5
Hall-2 3.5x 16
Guest Bath 5 X 7.5 (without tub)
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Hi,
Thanks for the quick response. After watching your video response, I agree that running the planks N – S makes more sense. I also read that running the planks perpendicular to a focal point and windows is a good idea. So I believe it makes the most sense to do it this way especially as it will reduce the amount of time spent working backwards.
I appreciate your comments on the flooring. I tried a few brands and found this one was within my budget and seemed to click together easier than some others.
As to your questions, the plank has an underlayment and HD indicates that it is 1 mil thick. It is thicker than many of the other floors I looked at.
I live in the High Desert, so it is arid and relatively dry. It does not get as hot here as AZ but can reach in the high 90s during the day in the summer. Losing the moisture barrier does make sense. At the stores, they all are recommending underlayment and moisture barriers as well as transitions. It is hard to know what is needed when the salesmen are looking to increase sales.
I do have radiant heating under the slab that uses a hot water system.
The question on the T/G is confusing to me. However, starting where you recommended (NE corner of the house), the Tongue would be on the North and East walls. The Grooves would be facing South and West.
I will attach some pictures once I get the size reduced.
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Note the curved wall. I think the techniques you discussed in the Angled walls video will work perfectly to address this. I have two of these walls in the house.
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Thanks for the compliments on the house. I appreciate it. We are renovating while living here. I pulled the wall paper and carpet as well as chipped out the tiles in the kitchen. We did have some carpentry work done in the kitchen to have venting and gas run to the stove. To save money that are manageable such as laying the flooring. Youtube really has save me a lot of money thanks to videos like yours that explain how things are done.
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Just want to verify with you – http://somup.com/crQvbBrWNf
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The walls are drawn correctly. The North side is 24″ and the South side is 16″. You are correct about the fireplace. My drawing shows approximately what it will look like after it has been redone. The current one sticks out into the room 4 feet. My intention was to have that done while I have the floors leveled. My drawing shows it at ~3X6 but I don’t have anything definite yet. If anything, it could be narrower.
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I am working on this and will have it done today.
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Here is your blueprint – http://somup.com/cr6VY63VSD
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Thanks for the blueprint. I have watched most of your videos and will be referring back to them as I get to the different parts of the install. I am sure I will have questions then. I was wondering where you posted survey results on flooring from your members. You mention this in a couple of videos but I couldn’t find it on Facebook or in Laminate University.
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Are you a member of the private facebook group? Here is a link to that post -https://www.facebook.com/groups/sothatshowyoudothatuniversity/posts/1625211947661680/
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Thanks for the link. It was interesting to see what others have done.
I have a question about securing the floor. I watched a video on YouTube and you discussed using a glue gun to secure the floor on a concrete slab. I was planning on using that method rather than drilling holes in the laminate/concrete. I could not find the glue sticks in the tool section and am wondering if there was a reason why. I did order several items from Amazon, although some of your items weren’t available.
My flooring has been ordered but I am running into problems finding a technician to level the floors. In general, this has been an ongoing problem this year.
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Here is that link Marena – https://amzn.to/3ljMicj
where do you live?
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Thanks for the link. I looked at the glue sticks and it indicates I cannot use a typical craft glue gun. The manufacturer recommends their gun which is over $100. Do you have any suggestions that would cut that in half and still work?
I live in Albuquerque, NM. This is the best time of year for weather but will start getting cold around Halloween. Maybe I can find some technicians then.
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