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Blueprint Request
My project is a gut kitchen remodel which will include replacing flooring in the kitchen and three hallway areas, as shown in the overview drawing attached. We have selected Coretec Stone tiles which are a SPC LVT in a tile format, about 18×24. I’d be interested in knowing if anyone here has experience with the Coretec Stone product. I’ve done testing on samples as suggested in one of Joe’s videos; it passed all the tests and it is the most scratch resistant LVT I’ve found. I haven’t ordered the flooring yet, so if it’s a big mistake, I’d sure like to know.
I’ve attached an overview drawing that calls out the areas to get new flooring, a second drawing with dimensions, and a third drawing that has my first attempt at showing the layout of the tiles in the space. I’ve also attached some pictures of all the areas for a little context.
Here’s my plan:
1. Remove all the shoe and baseboard moldings. Some of the door casings will be removed as well; the others will be undercut as needed.
2. Remove the existing T molding between the dining room and halls and between the office and hall.
3. Finish tearing out the old floor. (I can go into why we are removing it if needed) I’ve previously done both the dining room and office and so know that drill.
4. Repair any issues with the subfloor, including fixing the 10 million squeaky spots.
5. Level any major dips/humps/
6. Lay down .5 inch underlayment plywood. This is mostly to keep all the hard surface floors at close to the same height.
7. Recheck for dips/humps.
8. Lay down another .5 of plywood in the kitchen cabinet locations.
9. Repaint all the walls.
10. Install the kitchen cabinets.
11. Install the flooring, starting with the main hallway?
12. Install new casing on the doors where it was removed.
13. Replace the baseboard and shoe.
Questions:
1. What did I miss or get wrong?
2. Is the draft layout OK or is there a better way to arrange the tiles?
3. Is the main hallway the correct place to start?
4. I know there will be t-mold at the dining room and office doors, and into the half bath, and reducer into the laundry room (which has glued down sheet vinyl). I guess square nose where the bedroom hallway carpet is. Do I need other transitions? Closets?
5. What happens if I get to the far side of the kitchen by the garage hallway and the edge of the flooring isn’t square to the hallway? Would I use a T-mold so the flooring in the hall can be lined up with the walls?
6. I use overlap stair nose for that top step to the basement, correct?
7. What are my options for cutting SPC flooring? Will a track saw with a carbide blade work? (outside of course). I haven’t found anyone nearby renting big flooring shears and buying one big enough to do 24 inches would be $$$.
8. Will the clear gorilla glue work on SPC flooring?
I guess that’s it for now anyway. I’ve learned a ton from watching your videos and look forward to hearing your suggestions.
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4 Replies
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Joe, thanks for helpful comments. I would like to get a blueprint; no rush, my flooring won’t be here until Nov….
I’ve attached a drawing that answers some of your questions. In the upper left is a tile with the two Tongue sides marked.
At the lower right, you had expressed that layout might not work against the wall, but that’s not a wall, it’s open to the family room, which is carpeted. So wherever the full tile ends is where we’ll run the new carpet up to.
You asked about the wood floor in the dining room; it will stay. When I installed the cherry T mold, I screwed it down with trim screws so it can be easily removed and replaced. Same deal with the laminate floor in the office, except there I made a transition out of oak to match the old hardwood floor. I’ll replace that with T mold that matches the new floor.
Let me know if you have any other questions, and thanks again.
Paul
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Here is your blueprint Paul – http://somup.com/cr6fF23h23
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Thanks Joe, I haven’t made it all the way through yet, but great info!
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