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Blueprint for First Floor
Hi Joe! Thank you for your great videos and encouragement. I let the guys go as we discussed on FB. My next step is to pull up the flooring. And measure and plan for new install.
Basics:
Coretec Plus XL Enhanced
Color: Hayes Oak
LVP
Cork underlayment attached
9” x 72” x 8mm
Actual dimensions 8.98” x 72.05”
20 mil wear layer
https://pdmsview.shawinc.com/spec-viewer/?key=R0chIiQ%2BREchIiQ%3D
Installing on top of concrete slab
QUESTIONS:
1) Is there a good way to organize the planks I will be removing?
2) Attached is the floor plan. You advised to start in the kitchen on exterior wall and run north to south straight through the kitchen towards front of house to start. My question is…where is my center line that I need to snap? I am not sure which room to snap it in as I have that really long run from the front door to the back of the house and a long run in the kitchen. I will add some photos in the comment section with different views. I will also post some measurements if you need them. Total is approx 1200 sq ft
3) I have some areas that I am not sure about…
a) The back french door….should this be a full plank as this is a HIGH traffic area with kids and dog? See photo
b) the small hall/alcove near the bathroom
c) the closet underneath the stairs
d) how to run the planks to exterior doors garage and front door. See photo.
Thank you so much in advance!!!!!!!
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16 Replies
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Alcove by bathroom, laundry/pantry, downstairs bedroom doorway
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Here are the exterior door areas I mentioned.
1) french door area off the kitchen. Previously had tile floor.
2) front door previously had tile and is pretty rough looking. The floor guys we previously discussed didn’t prep anything just ran the boards without removing the threshold or any stuck on grout/debris. This is the area getting pulled up.
I am ok with any suggestions even purchasing new thresholds. Thank you again!!!
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10 plank width is pictured 89 13/16”
Nook width 140” from french door metal threshold pictures to exterior wall.
Space between base cabinets and island kick plate is 46”.
From exterior wall to cabinet front is 21 5/16”
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I have a couple of questions for you.
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Hi Joe! Thanks so much for the quick reply. I really appreciate your feedback. The quarter round by the front door sounds like a great idea as well as the caulking option for areas that are cut too high.
I have gone back-and-forth about what to do as far as completely taking it up and starting over or trying to work with it.
The problem is that they used the stairstep pattern of laying the planks in that front room and then switched to the staggered method. And most of the cuts around the walls and the door frames over there are really sloppy.
So I thought about it after our Facebook conversation, I think it would be better to just go ahead and take it all up and start fresh from the kitchen. I think I would only have to work backwards in maybe the fridge and laundry area where the washer and dryer are, but that’s such a small space it wouldn’t be that big of a deal.
When I moved in this house 14 years ago, there was carpet and tile in the downstairs area. I think that’s why the door jams were cut so high because it was pretty thick carpet. I do think I need to replace/repair that casing on the right side of the front door because it got pretty torn up from when they were taking up the tile in that area. The caulking also sounds like a good plan for some other areas as well as the tub.
After watching more of your videos last night, I need to do more prep as well. I have a low spot that I can feel when walking from family room towards the stair area that I want to repair.
I am up for the challenge. I worked really hard to save the money to buy all this flooring so I want to be happy with the finished product.
Thanks again! Hope you are enjoying your weekend. Today has been beautiful down here in FL. I am headed out to fix my sprinklers now haha.
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Ok, sounds good to me. I have a few in front of you, but I will get this done today and get it to you by tomorrow for sure. Thank you
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Here is your blueprint-
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Thank you so much for the detailed plan Joe! I need to re-watch the video today and take some more notes. Waiting on some tools to arrive that you suggested.
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The original flooring installer used the 6 mil vapor barrier. I hear you mention that in the video. I was planning to use the quiet walk that you suggested since my LVP is greater than 5mm and put it right over the top of the plastic vapor barrier that they laid. I have some minor concrete imperfections, and I thought the quiet walk may help a bit with that.
What are your thoughts on that?
Do you think it would be a good idea to use QW in my case?
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Does your plank have an attached pad? You do not need that vapor barrier since it is a vinyl plank. But, if there is not an attached pad then I would use quiet walk.
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There is a cork backing.
–>These are the instructions that came with the Coretec LVP flooring:
WPC flooring is waterproof and reliably secures the flooring panels on all four sides. However, excessive moisture in the subfloor could promote mold, mildew, and other moisture related issues like the trapping of moisture emissions under the flooring, which may contribute to an unhealthy indoor environment.
Additional layer of 6 mil poly film or equal vapor retarder with a perm rating of .1 or less may be used as an additional layer of protection.
A second underlayment is allowed under any currently sold resilient product with attached underlayment in a residential application. If installed over a second underlayment, this underlayment cannot be greater than 3 mm thick. IIC (ASTM E492-09) and STC (ASTM E90-09) lab testing on certain resilient products tested with and without a second layer of underlayment, to date, does not indicate that a second underlayment will provide additional acoustic benefit.
All subfloors must be clean, flat, dry, and structurally sound. The correct preparation of the subfloor is a major part of a successful installation. Subfloor must be flat: 3/16″ in 10′ or 1/8″ in 6′.
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Yes, I would use quiet walk. You will not regret it!!
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Morning Joe! I wanted to show you a few things before I get started. All the tools are here and ready to get started.
This is the kitchen area you discussed in your video blueprint. You discussed plank layout with me and starting in this area. The planks are pretty wide at 9”. These photos area the kitchen and laundry/pantry. I am able to fit full planks across this kitchen area between wall cabinets and island. What do you think about this?
Other issue:
no pics for this one yet. I measured the main hall way that you suggest starting with for measuring and snapping the line. I will be able to avoid the two skinny planks on either side by using a 4” plank on only one side. My issue is that there are two door ways I am dealing with: bathroom and closet under the stairs. It looks like one of the doors is going to be stuck with a full plank in the door.
I am going to lay out planks straight across the room today to see how I can shift things around. I tired measuring and figuring it out including the kitchen, but there so many variables to deal with that I can’t figure it out.
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Hi Joe, I wanted to move it over here so it was easier for you to find the pictures. Here is a better floor plan which matches the photos.
Flooring plank size: 8.98” x 72.05” per Coretec
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Kitchen view today
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