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Andrew Miner’s Floorplan
Hi Joe,
I’m over halfway through your course videos, and they helped a lot so far! The only comment on them is that some of your older ones had a music intro, which I don’t like as much as your new ones where you just jump into the topic of your video.
My house is a slab on grade rambler with no steps. The 4″ slab has fiber reinforcement, and only a few hairline cracks that have not opened up or shifted in the year since it was poured. The whole slab is above the exterior grade, so moisture shouldn’t be an issue. The slab has hydronic heating tubes throughout.
The whole slab was finished with a twin blade, riding power trowel, so it is smooth and relatively flat as far as the eye can tell. When installing cabinets in the kitchen, there was a quarter inch difference in the slab from one side to the other. However, there are a couple low spots that puddled after rains. How worried do I need to be about these fluctuations?
The chapel on the east side will not be finished or have flooring placed into it until after we move in, since it will be my paint room for trim.
My initial thoughts are that the flooring should be centered in the main hallway as the control point, and that I start in the kitchen sink area (south) and work north through the kitchen into the living room area with the couch (north). After that, work into the hallway and then feed into all the other rooms. I’m very open to your suggestions on this plan…
The two showers are 3″ thick concrete that are 1″ below the main floor areas, so I can place thin set and hexagonal or octagonal tile that can slope down to the drain and also match up to the LVP flooring that will abut it.
In the laundry room, I also have a floor drain, which will show through the LVP in case the washing machine ever leaks. The utility room also has a floor drain, and the LVP will probably go into there as well. How would I hold the lvp down around the drains, hot glue? And do I need to worry about the slope in the slab?
Attached is:
1/2. A jpg and pdf (higher res) version of the floor plan.
3. A picture of the shower to bathroom elevation change.
4. A picture of the laundry for drain.
5. Pictures of the flooring.I already purchased your plank puller set and cutter with the boot camp. Let me know if you have any other questions.
Thank you, and God bless!
Andrew Miner -
7 Replies
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Forgot this one…
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Thanks, Joe! You’re very welcome for the business! <div>
</div><div>Yes, it’s a new design/build that I’m doing myself, and I’m almost finished with it after a year and a half…</div><div> </div><div>For the puddle areas in the concrete, it is over many feet to get that 1/4″ drop. The double wide power trowel made it very smooth and piece wise flat, but there are a couple of low spots that only water can show with puddles. Using a 4ft level, you can’t see a gap, but you can see the bubble tilt a little bit.</div><div>
</div><div>Yes, in a few months, I’ll continue the plank up into the chaple. I’m just holding off on that room so it can be my paint booth for this winter. I just want to end the plank in that room, bit start in that room. </div><div>
</div><div>The screen porch is outside and will just be a concrete slab. </div><div>
</div><div>The plank will continue into the Mudroom and will most likely go into the utility room. </div><div>
</div><div>I already have all of the plank for the install, so I’m not super excited to do the glue down in the laundry room, plus that would add a transition to that doorway. </div><div>
</div><div>The 6ft level is centered over the laundry drain. On the right-hand side, you can see 5/8″ for the gap in the laundry drain. Would you do the Henry 549, or just use thin set since I already have that on hand. </div><div>
</div><div>Color matched silicone control joints between the shower tile and LVP are perfect. It’s a good idea to do silicone instead of grouting right up to the plank.</div><div>
</div><div>You said that the Adura Max won’t expand and contact much, which is great. I don’t think my house will move much either, though, since it’s ICF walls and not 2x6s.</div><div>
</div><div>I see what you mean about working the east/west planks from north to south instead of south to north, I would probably go with that method. </div><div>
</div><div>However, running the plans north/ south and then moving from the kitchen to the chapel does look easier. I would stagger the joints down the main hallway to add a random pattern to that. </div><div>
</div><div>Which way do you think would look better, running the planks n/s or e/w? Or do you think either way would look good and there isn’t any real difference between the two ways since it’s 3k sq ft and there are so many different rooms competing for different directions? </div><div>
</div><div>Thank you so much, </div><div>Andrew</div><div>God bless!</div> -
For the laundry room, I removed the drain plug for the picture, but I’ll use that when filling the area in. The final drain insert screws in and allows for a final height adjustment. I don’t remember what that is at the moment, but I’ll calculate it before filling the area.
So, just to confirm, if you looked at this house for the first time, you’d assume that the planks should be running east/ west, lengthwise down the hallway, for the best look in the kitchen, living room and hallway. I can make any direction and start point work, I’m just trying to make sure that most people won’t say, “Why did he do it that way….”, especially my wife 😉
If I do lengthwise down the hallway, I’d start in the living room and then work into the kitchen area just to minimize cutting when starting.
Thank you!
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Yes, I would run it east and west
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Awesome, thank you!
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