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Carlos’ first LVP project – upper floor
Hello Joe,
Greetings. My house is a split level, so I decided to break the project down in three different floors, starting with the upper floor. Dimensions were taken wall to wall and might be off by 1/2″, give or take.
The bathroom already has tile flooring and is the only room that I want a transition.
I tried to illustrate in bedroom #1 the direction of the planks that I want to follow. Each plank is LifeProof 8.7″ x 48″.
Attached is a PDF of the floorplan and some pictures. I’d be happy to shoot a video if that helps. Are there any other dimensions or details that you need? Please advise. Thanks.
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34 Replies
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Joe, besides de starting point for the LVP, I’ll have several other questions. Should I post them here too?
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yes, post them here.
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HI Joe, thanks for replying. Yes, I agree with the starting point being Bedroom #1 (upper left corner of my floorplan). I draw some planks in that room just to show you the direction I wanted them to be. I’m ready to start. I have several questions, I will list them below:
01. Measurements were taken wall to wall. Do you need me to take from the framing? The house currently has no baseboards.
02. I’ll be using underlayment. Should I put underlayment in the whole floor first? Or as I go?
03. Do you need me to post the width of 10 planks as you showed in one of your videos? I will be using LIFEPROOF, I will take a picture of the four sides and post them here.
04. Are stairs a separate job or do I have to do them in sequence? Once I finish the upper fllor, can I move to the next and do the stairs at the end?
05. What tools will I need? I understand I will need a tapping block and a pull bar, I’d appreciate if you could provide a few links. Or should I just go ahead and purchase the ones you recommend in your website?
Thanks. Can’t wait to start. Please let me know if you need any additional info.
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Hi Joe, thanks for the great video. I watched it, but I’ll watch it again. There’s a lot of information there.
I already have most of the tools, like the oscillating tool, utility knifes, knee pads and everything. I will buy the spacers you recommended and the tapping block. I have a hammer, will send you a picture for you to see if that’s ok for this kind of job.
I will watch the videos you recommended and I am sure more questions will come once I start.
One thing I did not share is that I’ll be working alone.
You mentioned I can use an utility knife or a jigsaw to cut the planks. Can I use a miter saw to cut the planks? Or is it not practical?
Thanks again.
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Hey Joe, I watched this video a couple of times now while waiting for all my tools to arrive. Still a few questions:
01. In your recording at 14:14, in which video you show how to put the scrap pieces? I know that you usually screw them to the subflooring. In my case, I’d just screw thru the pad, right?
02. TImeline 18:30 in the recording. It is probably a silly question, but why do I need this hallway line once I have already started and I am almost halfway through?
03. Once I get to the point shown in 17:11 and the yellow circle that you pointed out, can I still mess up the alignment?
Thanks
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This reply was modified 4 months, 2 weeks ago by
Carlos.
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This reply was modified 4 months, 2 weeks ago by
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here is a great video to watch that is using a plank with the same locking system as yours – https://youtu.be/4Gy_f0uPow8
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yes, a miter saw is perfect
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Hey Joe, I took pictures of my plank and it looks like the configuration is like this. Am I right?
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Joe, I use Sketchup to draw my floorplan and I can simulate on computer where to snap the hallway line before snapping the actual line. Center line does not work as it leaves a little over an inch on each side. I measured the width of up to 10 planks. Here it is:
1 plank – 8 5/8″
2 planks -17 5/8″
3- 26″
4- 34 5/8″
5- 43 5/16″
6- 52″
7- 60 3/4″
8- 69 3/8″
9- 78 1/16″
10- 86 3/4″The hallway width is 37 3/8″. Please see attached image that shows where would the planks land with the line in center of hallway. Planks are in red and the snapped line in blue.
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This is how it looks like if I move the line about 4 1/2″ to the left.
By the way, what you say the plank should hit the door jamb, how deep should it hit? Like, how many inches into the door jamb?
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Hi Joe, thanks for replying. It’s been very helpful. I know I have a lot of questions, but once I start, I’ll get the hang of it.
I have this hammer, how is this different from the ones you suggested?
https://www.estwing.com/product/rubber-mallet-hammer-black-gray/
Another question. To get the staggered look, do you follow a formula or pattern? I’ve attached an image. The red plank is my very first plank leaning against the wall, right? If I use a full plank, then the others should be off, how large should the ones in green, for example? Should I cut a bunch ahead to save time and what size?
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Hi Joe, I did some more simulations and it seems that I found the sweetspot and hit the jackpot! Or not. I am able to hit both doorways (red) and I get a 3/8″ gap on both sides (green). Is that too risky to have that gap covered by the baseboard? I was not planning on using quarter round, just the baseboards. Or should I move the line (blue) a couple of inches to either side?
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This reply was modified 4 months, 2 weeks ago by Carlos.
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This reply was modified 4 months, 2 weeks ago by
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Another question: I know we want to avoid slim pieces, like 1-2″ wide planks. What if we get a 1-2″ gap in the other direction, across the plank? Do you know what I mean? We are laying a full row of planks and we get to cut a very short piece at the end?
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Hi Joe,
I’ve been playing with the hallway line and if I move it a bit, I either end up having a full plank inside my door jamb or a less than 1″ wide plank at the end of the room.
I figure that if I start 3/8″ from the wall, it will end on the other side with a 1/4 gap. Here’s an image of how the planks would be in the door jambs. I think it is pretty good.
If I choose the take this route, can I start my very first row in the left wall using the spacers? In this case, would I need to screw the scrap pieces?
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